Standard Operating Procedure For Footwear Industry-In process Quality Control

Hello everyone. This is the quality final part of the SOP. Lets see the In Process Quality Control.

If you aren't read the quality first part click to read First part

Quality control is one of the most important function in production. It cannot be "inspected into shoe ate the end of the line."

Quality must be built into the shoes at every step in the manufacturing process. Substandard quality be identified and corrected when it occurs in the manufacturing process.

This process quality control concept rest on three basic principles.

1. Only good materials are used
2. Operations are performed correctly
3. Any defects are corrected when they occur during manufacturing.

This quality control system moves the quality checker into the main stream of production and makes him process quality controller.

The process quality controller makes a statistical quality control check at several critical check points in the process, at regular intervals. He measures and counts he does not guess.

In line with that Operator should

1. Receive good work
2. Perform good work
3. Supply good work

In-Line Inspection: During the production of shoe the operator's finished work is checked by line supervisor. A quality inspector moves from one operator to another at random inspecting a predetermined number of parts from a finished lot.

At the final stage checking by the quality checker after ration packing in the master cartoon as per AQL(Accepted Quality Level)  requirement and making report. To make recheck if the consignment fails AQL Requirement.

AQL Chart

All the above checking is carried out on the basis of approved reference sample. Besides that on the basis of the quality report preventive/corrective action are initiated the the quality dept. They also check the processing parameters such as time, temperature and pressure on daily basis.


Ok thats all. I think it will help a footwear manufacturer to help make their own company SOP.

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Standard Operating Procedure For Footwear Industry-Production Process(Lasting & Finishing)

Hello everyone. This is the Production part (Lasting and Finishing) of this SOP. If you don't read yet the Sewing parts you can read from the following links. In this part we are talking about Lasting and Finishing department where a shoe packed.

Standard Operating Procedure For Footwear Industry-Production Process(Sewing)

It is the process in which all the component parts of the upper and bottom are brought together to construct the shoe. Various construction processes are used for shoe assembling depending on the style.

a. Objectives: 

• To make shoe as per plan, style and size assortment within the stipulated time.
• To ensure the best utilization of the resources (man, machine and material).
• To ensure the making of right quantity of shoe of the right quality in the most efficient manner. 

b. Main Functions:

• To make an analysis of the file, production plan received from the planning Dept.  and the approved sample. In case of any deviation to be communicated to the person concern and get it corrected.
• To make sure that the necessary equipment, machinery and manpower are available well ahead of production start time for avoiding any sort of interruption during production.

Receiving of components: 

• Ready components (upper, insole, sole etc.) are checked, counted pair by pair as per style, approved sample, color, size assortment and receive from the sewing dept. as well as from the store. 

Receiving of auxiliary items.

• Requirement for the corresponding accessories such as, shank, welt, needle, thread, necessary chemicals, packing material etc.  is given to the store and received accordingly.

Click to Large View

Practical shoe making:

There are seven different types of construction are in practice in a standard company. Namely

• Moccasin Process
• Stitch Down Process
• Cemented Stuck-on Process
• California Process.
• Goodyear welt process
• Stitch & turn process 
• Espadrilles.

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Standard Operating Procedure For Footwear Industry-Production Process(Sewing)

Hello everyone. This is the Production part (Sewing) of this SOP. If you don't read yet the Cutting & Prefabrication parts you can read them from the following links. In this part we are talking about Sewing department.

Standard Operating Procedure For Footwear Industry-Production Process(Upper Cutting & Prefabrication)

Sewing Department: The Sewing Dept. plays a very important role in shoe making. It has an impact both in terms of functionality and outlook. Maximum value addition in a shoe making happens  in sewing Department. Both for functional and decorative feature , it is important to use number of stitches per cm. Therefore utmost care should be taken in the sewing operations. Besides that the maximum job content, workforce and machinery are involved in the sewing dept. Let's see sewing objective and main functions.

Objective: 

• To stitch the cut components of uppers as per plan, size assortment and approved sample within the stipulated time.
• To ensure the best utilization of the manpower and machinery.
• To ensure the stitching of right quantity of upper in the right quality in the most efficient manner.

Main Functions:

• TO make an analysis of the file(Production Guide), production plan received from planning and the approved sample. In case of any deviation to be communicated to the person concern and get it corrected.
• To ensure necessary equipment, machinery and manpower are available well ahead of production start time for avoiding any sort of interruption during production.

Receiving Components:

• Upper components are checked, counted pair by pair as per style, approved sample, color, size assortment and receive from the cutting dept.

Receiving of auxiliary items:

• Requirement for the corresponding auxiliary items such as needle, thread, buckle, eyelet, trim, necessary chemicals etc is given to the store and received accordingly as per approved sample. 

Practical Stitching:

• Preparation: Before starting the job, a preparatory check is done of the approved sample, component, related accessories, guides, gadgets, machinery and the required manpower. Thread color & number to be matched with the approved style. Needle to be set as per thread number, stitch length to be adjusted as per sample. marking ink & cleaner to be selected well ahead of production.
• Line Setting: Since every style have their uniqueness in sewing, it requires different setting in the sewing line for the sequential operation avoiding repetition of movement.
• One pair is stitched first following the approved sample to check every technical details.Consult with the product development dept. and get it approved after necessary correction if required.

After getting the approval, the volume production stats, components are sometimes reinforced, laminate and progressively stitched together such as collars are joined to quarters, tongue to vamps, vamps to quarters, eyelets to uppers and so on depending on the style using a wide variety of specialized sewing machines until the upper is completely stitched. Sequential operation of a typical sewing line shown bellow:

Each operator along with the helper is responsible for efficiently producing high quality work. They must follow the approved sample. Proper thread, needle, number of stitches per cm, distances from edges or other raws of stitches to be maintained. Loose threads to be trimmed, shoe components are straight and wrinkle free during attachment. Line supervisor check the quality different point and gives technical solutions.

• At the end of the sewing process the quality controller inspect the stitched upper pair by pair so that a standard of excellence is maintained. After completion of stitching, the stitched uppers are stored in the section.
• Delivery: Depending in the style, some of the uppers are directly delivered to the lasting line and some of them to the Hand Sewing for Moccasin Stitch.

Relation Between thread and Needle: Very important for sewing

 THREAD NEEDLE (LR/LL) NEEDLE (DP/PF)
  10               160-180                       22-24
  20               130-140                 20-22
  30               120-130                 20-22
  40               100-110                 18-20
  60                90-100                 12-14

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Standard Operating Procedure For Footwear Industry-Part 6(Raw Material Store)

Hello everyone. This is the 6th part of this SOP. If you don't read yet the first 5 parts you can read them from the following links. In this part we are talking about Procurement department.

Part -01

Part- 02 

Part- 03

Part- 04

Part- 05

a.Objectives: 

• To store all necessary materials well ahead of production in order to give support whenever they need.
• To maintain optimum stock level to avoid over/under stock. 

b. Main Functions:

• To receive material as per purchase order in terms of quantity and quality as per approved swatch.
• To store the materials in such a way so that they can remain free from all possibility of damage and can be easily located whenever they are needed.
• To maintain a stock inventory as per item.
• To supply the material on FIFO basis as per requirement and record it properly.
• To monitor the stock level as per standard OTB (open to buy) and communicate with the purchase manager.
• To adjust the stock with the new purchase requirement.
• To increase the stock turn for regular items.
• To remain well informed regarding the stock positions of all the items and participate wherever needed.
• To monitor the old stock and propose for the suitable article to use it.

Continue for the next post

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Standard Operating Procedure For Footwear Industry-Part 5(Procurement Department)

Hello everyone. This is the 5th part of this SOP. If you don't read yet the first 4 parts you can read them from the following links. In this part we are talking about Procurement department.

Part -01

Part- 02 

Part- 03

Part- 04

Procurement plays a vital role in any manufacturing operation. It is more important in case of export oriented company where the quality and timeliness is a number one priority. Besides that the process ability and productivity also greatly depends on the quality of the raw material and the timely procurement.

a.    Objectives :

• To make all the necessary materials available well ahead of production freezing.
• To ensure the competitive price and quality as per approved swatch.
• To maintain a very minimum stock level to avoid over and under stock.

b.    Main Functions:

• To receive the material requirement just after the production plan.
• To make adjustment with the available stock.
• To select the best possible supplier considering the price, timely delivery and consistency in quality.
• To maintain the suppliers data base.
• To make purchase order with the appropriate supplier for the particular material.
• To monitor their processing to ensure timely receiving.
• To visit the supplier time to time to see their facility and educate them as per our requirement.
• To invite suppliers to built good relationship.
• To receive material as per approved quality and receiving date.

Thanks.
Click to continue for the next post 

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Standard Operating Procedure For A Footwear Industry-Part 4(Planning Department)

Hello everyone. This is the 4th part of this SOP. If you don't read yet the first 3 parts you can read them from the following links.

Part -01

Part- 02 

Part- 03

Planning in its broader sense means systematic preparation for action. To decide before start where a company want to go and how they are going to get there.

Therefore, planning is a rational process characteristics of all human behaviors for actions individually or collectively to accomplish certain objectives.


a.    Objectives:

• To produce and deliver the right quantity of shoes,   
• Of the right quality,
• At the right time as required by the customer,
• In the most economical and efficient manner.

Make Plan

b.    Main Functions:

• To take export order considering the production facility regarding the technicality, capacity and the timing.
• To consult with the sample dept. regarding the approved sample, specifications and technical details of the ordered articles.
• To make a production file along with PD(Product Development) dept. detailing the specifications and the required quantities of material and issue to the concern dept. after necessary approval.
• To study the consumption of material.
• To make production plan to facilitate the operation to take necessary preparation in terms of machinery, manpower and material.
• To give material requirement to the procurement dept.
• To test material as per Buyer/Customer’s requirement.
• To consult with the Production Managers regarding the machinery and manpower.
• To make a checklist for all the necessary items such as equipment, material, accessories, auxiliary chemicals, packing materials etc. and update on daily basis to follow-up and ensure the availability on time. 
• To maintain liaison with the customer, PD(product development) and make necessary adjustment.
• To communicate with the customer and provide the necessary service to satisfy them.
• To conduct a pre-production meeting with the concern people for ensuring un-interrupted production.
• To give production schedule to the customer as well as the production people and follow it up to maintain.
• To visit production floor for having a track whether the things are moving in the right direction or not. If not to co-ordinate among the persons concern for necessary adjustment.
• To give inspection report to the customer for shipment approval.
• To conduct the third party inspection where ever necessary.
• To communicate with the shipping dept. for final shipment.
• To confirm the shipment status to the customer after passing the final inspection.

To be continued............

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Standard Operating Procedure For A Footwear Industry-Part 3(Marketing Department)

Hello everyone. This is the 3rd part of this SOP. If you don't read yet the first 2 parts you can read them from the following links.

Part -01

Part- 02 

The general outline of modern marketing is presented by the following definition:
“Marketing is the performance by an enterprise of all the activities required in order to create, promote, and distribute products in accordance with the present or potential buyers/customers demand and the firm’s ability to produce.”

a.      Objectives:

• To create a market so that manufacturer can sell our product satisfying the need of the buyer/customer.
• To remain competitive in the market to achieve targeted profit.  
• To maintain the sale volume so that manufacturer can fully utilize productive capacity.

b.    Main functions:

• To create an innovative product range considering a target group of buyer/customer.
• To exhibit those products by participating in the various international shoe fairs, through our website and also international shoe journal published by the fair organizers.
• To provide maximum salesmanship effort to convince the potential buyers.
• To negotiate with buyer/customer remaining in the win-win situation so that he becomes a loyal buyer/customer.
• To provide after sales service wherever necessary.

 Terms and conditions related to order taking:

   1.    Time period: Usually like the following:

   a.    Initial order

• Lead time 90 days in case of new shoe last & outsole mould.
•              “          75 days in case of everything is available.

   b.    Repeat order:

• Lead time 45 days in case of local material.
•              “           60-70 days in case of imported material.
•              “          45 days in case of imported material borne by Air.

   2.    Minimum order quantity:

            a.    In case of newly developed outsole mould and last by manufacturer - 20,000 pairs.
            b.    If buyer provides mould & last – 6,000 pairs.
            c.    In case of existing mould and last – 5,000 pairs.


  3.    Quantity per color:

          a.    For leather – 1,000 pairs.
          b.    For textile – 3,000 pairs.
          c.    For others – 2,000 pairs.

  4.    Payment:

        a.    L/C. at site.


  5.     Pricing:  Manufacturer use Cost- Plus pricing policy (Material +labor +overhead +… ) . They  calculate the total cost of producing and selling the product and add a minimum desired rate of profit.


The next article about Planning Department.

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Standard Operating Procedure For A Footwear Industry-Part 2(Product Development)

Hello all

How was the first part. Today we will go for the second part of SOP.

At first we see a flow chart of SOP

Flow chart of a SOP

Product Development Department: 

Product development is the core function of any manufacturing company. It is the basic tool to attract customer and eventually to come to a business contract. Initially a designer translates his idea, concept, perception and experience (gathered from his surroundings by visiting fairs, shoe markets, reading magazines, searching online etc) into a product considering a target group of customers. This initially developed sample under goes many modification through different stages, finally it is perfected by accommodating the suggestions from both the customers and the manufacturers. 

Before placing any order to the facility, the Buyer/Customer wants to know whether the factory is capable of producing the styles with the desired quality level or not. The sample shows the ability of exporter to deal with any given styles of shoes .The Buyer/Customer accesses the capability of exporter only with the help of samples. If the samples are good quality, price competitive and time bounded naturally the Buyer/Customers will be willing to place the order to the factory.  The future of any style depends on the sample. 

So it is very important to understand the sample development process to control quality and cost in the initial stage. Designer plays the vital role in the sampling process as the only person between the Buyer/Customer and the factory who understands the Buyer/Customer specification, technical details, and time line of sampling. The process of the sampling is about the eventual satisfaction of specific needs. Therefore, it is essential that the samples should be made with utmost care.

Objectives: 

• To create   innovative product range to attract potential customers.
• It must be competitive in the market.
• It can be produced in the existing manufacturing facility.
• It should be promptly responsive to the customer. 

Main Functions:

• To innovate a product range that can attract the potential customer to satisfy their desired need.
• While developing a product following points are considered,

               1.Aesthetics view of the product (Sales appeal to the potential Buyer/Customers).
               2.Technicality of the product.
               3.Cost involvement.

• To make liaison with the customer and accommodate their suggestion till finalization of the sample.
• To update their technical knowledge so that they can build maximum comfort in the shoe.
• To become versatile regarding the shoe material available in the market, their proper application and their cost.
• To propose and arrange potential equipment's and demonstrate their uses in the factory.
• To remain updated regarding the manufacturing facility available in the factory.
• To issue and remain responsible for all types of sample, swatches for material, patterns, knives etc.
• To follow-up pilot production.
• As a shoe engineer, to assist in solving any sort of technical / quality problem that may arise during manufacturing. 
• To maintain a lateral relationship with the following dept. such as Planning/ Merchandising, Procurement, Raw material stores, production and Quality assurance team etc.
• Before finalization of sample, different steps are followed depending on the Buyer/Customer to Buyer/Customer and style to style. The steps are as follows:

                                     1) Initial Sample
                                     2) Salesman sample
                                     3) Advertisement/Press Sample
                                     4) Fitting Sample
                                     5) Confirmation Sample &
                                     6) Pre-Production /Gold seal Sample

These samples are sent to the Buyer/Customer one after another for approval.

Assessment of sample:

Upon receiving the samples, Buyer/Customers check the sample quality,  fitting, finishing etc and gives the feed back within 5-7 days through e-mail . Feedback from the Buyer/Customer comes in three different forms
             1. Accepted,
             2. Not accepted or
             3. Accepted with comments.

After getting their approval, it proceeds step by step. Sometimes the Buyer/Customer suggests some changes in the prepared sample both in terms of technicality and material.  Revised samples are made incorporating those suggestions and get it approved. This process continues till the sample is finally approved. After getting the final approval Buyer/Customer place the final order. And then PD dept. along with the Merchandising dept prepares a manufacturing sheet stating all the technical details including the material specification and their quantity per pair for doing the costing of the shoe.

Bellow The Product Development Flow chart are given

In the next chapter we will talk about Marketing

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10 Points for good cementing

Hello there,
In a shoe making process sole adhesion and other cementing is most important for making a better shoe.  I mention here 10 best points for good  cementing.

Cementing

1. Do Roughening and scouring of Uppers/Soles properly and remove dust (follow-procedure).

2. Use proper brush. Ensure separate brush for different kind of cements. Clean brush as follows:

               a.     Wipe brush for using P.U. cement with M.E.K.
               b. Wipe brush for using Neoprene cement with Toluene or petrol.
               c. Wipe brush for using latex with petrol.

3. Use primers depending the suitability of material. Before cementing use primers and ensure proper drying.  Drying time should not be less than 1 hour in case of halogenations (T.C.T. solution).

4. To avoid contamination keep the wiped surface upside down.

5. Ensure sufficient drying time (follow procedure).

6. Ensure proper temperature for heat-reactivation (follow procedure).

7. Ensure sufficient time for reactivation (follow procedure).

8. Lay soles to shoe when they are hot (immediate after reactivation)

9. Ensure proper pressing (follow procedure) maintain uniform pressure all over the sole.

10. Ensure sufficient time for pressing (follow procedure).

11. The surfaces where cement to be used must be clean and free of dust and moisture.

These are the points for good cementing of a shoe.

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Standart Data Manual For Upper Cutting Manipulation Of Shoe-3

Hello everyone. This is final part of the article. You can Visit First Part and Second Part if you need.

In this part we are discuss about Upper Leather Manipulation.

Cutting Methods: The cutting of a skin/hide is a specialized skill, and can only be acquired after many years of practice. Cutting does not only consist in the art of holding a knife or operating a clicking machine, it consists mainly in knowing how to rapidly place the patterns or the knife, and knowing the area to be cut. The difficulty of this work lies in the fact that the skin is irregular structure or value. A good cutter will always be cost minded and get maximum utilization from a skin/hide.

A good cutter must know how to use the maximum the various parts of the skin. Before cutting the skin, the following must be known:

• The defects which exist on both sides of the skin/hide (grain and flesh)
• The direction of stretch.

The vamps and overlays are cut from the bend- these are the main components of the upper which support all the walking flexions, therefore, they must be of the best quality.

Quarters are cut mainly from the belly.

Shoe Component

To cut an upper, the knives must be placed in such a way that the direction of the stretch coincides with the width of the piece.

A skin does not always present the same direction of stretch everywhere and the same quality. A perfect knowledge of the skin permits a good utilization of the skin.

In certain types of skins, particularly suede, there are various shades which should be cut and manipulated by pairs.

To cut a whole skin, it must be placed on the machine, head first, and starting at the left rear legs, working towards the right and placing the knives in such a way as to leave the least possible waste.

The cutter begins the manipulation form the left rear leg, cutting first the quarters. The fronts of the quarters must always converge towards the center of the skin.

The cutting operation in progresses towards the right in such a way, to cut a horizontal strip of the skin, since the quality of skin in this horizontal strip should be consistent.

Before cutting each component, the cutter must insure that the position of the skin leaves a suitable area for the following components. He must position the pieces together, because the smallest amount of abnormal waste often repeated is the cause of important losses.

Bellies and neck areas or those with slight defects, can be cut for inside quarters, which will be reinforced by counters when the shoe is finished. Certain of defects can be in the uppers, provided that they will be part of the lasting margin in the lasted shoe.

Knives: The knives which the cutter uses are manufactured from Swedish steel, are light and easy to Handle, and give very good results. Double edge cutting knives should be sued wherever possible, this minimizes the number of knives required, so reducing cost. The are two heights of knives:

1. 19 mm for leather
2. 31 mm for textiles and other multi layer cutting

Cutting Block: The blocks on which skins are cut where originally made of wood, but are now usually made of composition rubber or phenolic resin block which last much longer. 

The operator should always use the entire surface area of the block to wear it uniformly, this saves knives and improves cutting quality.

Leather Cutting Machine

Safety on Machines: The double control system on cutting machines requires both the cutter's hand to be on top of the machine, so ensuring that he/she cannot get his/her hands caught between the cutting head and the knife

That's all for now. This is the summery cutting method.

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Standart Data Manual For Upper Cutting Manipulation Of Shoe-2

This is the second part of the article. You can read the Standard Data Manual First part.


Direction of Stretch

Direction of Stretch

The skin stretches differently according to the particular area.


In order to manufacture shoes without defects, it is necessary to know the direction of the stretch. To do this, fold together the left front leg to the right back leg, to produce two diagonal lines. In tracing perpendiculars to these lines, the direction of the stretch is found. The stretch is very noticeable on the sides (legs, belly, butt, shoulder). It starts to diminish and disappear completely at the centre of the bend. This applies to almost all skins, with the exception of kid, which stretch in all directions.


A component must always be cut so that the direction of the stretch follows the width of the piece, that is avoid cutting the stretch direction along side the piece.


To be continue for the final part.

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Standart Data Manual for Upper Cutting Manipulation of Shoe-1

The method of Cutting "Uppers" from a skin is a great importance, and is necessary for cutter to know the structure of the skin/hide. The cutter must know which parts of the skin have better physical properties, the direction of the stretch and the nature and origin of the various defects.

The various parts of a skin or hide
The outside of the skin called  "grain" and the inside the "flesh".
The various parts of the skin are

Section of the skin/hide.

• The bend 
• Butt
• Shoulder
• Belly 
• Cheeks and
• The legs.

Bend: The bend is a part of the skin which covers the central part of the back of the animal. It is regular in thickness and also more resistant than other parts of the skin. This resistance diminishes towards the shoulder and the belly. The thickness, quality and size of the bend can vary according to the size or the type of skins.

Butt: The but is the lower part of the bend, and is not always even in thickness.

Shoulder: The shoulder covers the neck of the animal and is generally thick, especially in skin from male animals. It is lower quality than that of the bend and butt, since it is more spongy and shrivelled.

Belly: The belly, being the part of the body which is subject to most movement, i.e. breathing, has a different structure to other parts of the skin in that it has longer fiber which make it easier or stretch.

Cheeks & Legs: The cheek and leg have similar characteristics as the belly, and are the least usable parts of the skin.

To be continued for second part.

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Glossary of Terms-T, U, V & W

Glossary of Terms T

Thermoplastic Sheet

Thermoplastic material- material that will repeatedly soften when heated and harden when cooled. Typical of the thermo plastics are styrenes, acrylics, cellulosics, polyethylenes, vinyls, nylon and various fluorocabon materials.

Trermosetting material- material that will undergo or has undergone a chemical reaction by the action of heat, catalysts, ultra-violet light, etc., leading to readily infusible state. Typical of the thermosetting family are aminos (melamine and urea), most polysters, alkyds, epoxies and phenolics. They are normally compression molded and tend to be hard and rigid.

Throat- the central part of a shoe vamp opening where it is seamed to the front of the quarter.

Top lift- the top or outer layer or wearing surface of leather, rubber, plastic or composition on heel of

Top Lift

a shoe.

Glossary of Terms U
Upper- all of the upper parts of a shoe stitched together and ready for lasting and bottoming . It includes both the outside and lining of the shoe.


  Glossary of Terms U

Vamp/ Plug

Vamp- the lower part of a shoe upper which attached to the sole or welting.

Glossary of Terms W

Waist- the smallest part of the foot between the instep and the ball. Also the corresponding part of a shoe last.

Wedge heel- a heel ordinarily under 15/8 extending from the back of the shoe to the ball of the shoe to the ball of the shoe. The sole of the shoe follows the contour of the wedge heel, making a flat

Wages Heel

treading surface from the tip of the shoe to the back of the heel.

Welt-  the strip of leather between the upper and the sole to which each part is in turn attached.

Welt beating-  operation of lightly beating the welt into a smooth position around the edge of a shoe.

Width-  the width measurement is a straight line running across the bottom of the last at the ball or the widest part of the foot.


That's all Glossary of Terms. 

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Glossary of Terms S

Glossary of Terms S

Safety box toe- a box toe made of special high grade steel inserted in a work shoe for protective purpose.

Sample- a shoe made for the use of salesmen to show the style construction and quality of the footwear being offered for sale. The common trade practices is to make sample shoes in particular sizes.

Shank- that part of the sole of the shoe between the heel and the ball or tread. Also the steel or wood piece inserted in the arch of a shoe for reinforcement.

Sheepskin- leather from the skin of sheep used for linings and slippers.

Side Leather- cattle hide cut along backbone into two sides for convenient handling; leather made from these after trimming is side leather. A large percentage of leather shoes are made from this.

Silicone- on of the family of polymeric materials. The various forms obtainable are characterized by their resistance to heat. Silicones are used in the following applications:
a. High frequency molds
b. Greases for lubrication and mold release
c. Rubber- like sheeting for gaskets etc

Split Leather

d. Heat-stable fluids and compounds for waterproofing, insulating, etc
e. Thermo setting insulating varnishes and resins for booth coating and laminating.

Sock lining- a piece of material placed over the entire insole on the inside of a shoe to protect the foot from stitches on the inside in certain types of constructions.

Split leather- any leather from portions of hides or skins that are split into two or more thicknesses other than the grain or hair side. Uses: upholstery, gloves, luggage. innersole, shoe uppers.

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Glossary of Terms-Q & R

Glossary of Terms-Q

Part Of shoe

Quarter- the complete upper part of a shoe upper above the vamp line. The quarter may be referred to as the "top" in case of high boots. It may also be split into several components parts such as foxing, plug, saddle. The pattern of the quarter is frequently the most important part of the design of the shoe.

Glossary of Terms-R

Roughing- the exposure and erection of the fibers of the material on the lasted-over margin of the upper and the corresponding edges of the outsole in order to provide a more grippable surface to be cemented for the purpose of sole attaching.

Rough rounded- the outsole of a shoe after trimming or rounding off to the shape of the last. The crude outline made by the rough rounding machine is later perfected by edge trimming.

Rubber- an elastomer capable of rapid elastic recovery after being stretched, specifically natural rubber which is the standard of comparison for elastomers. The term rubber may apply to any on of a large number of natural and synthetic elastomeric compounds which can be made in varying degrees of hardness and may also be expanded into cellular form of sponge or cushion. Rubber is commonly used for cemented or molded shoe bottoms as well as for separate soles and heels. Protective footwear is also made of rubber either slush molded or fabricated from sheeting or rubberized cloth.

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Glossary of Terms P

Glossary of Terms P

Pattern- metal. fiberboard, wood or paper forms from the outlines of which are cut the various pieces of the shoe. Quality of patterns determine fit, style and economy of material used. Also refers to the model or style of a shoe.

Piece work- method of paying wages on a basis of the number of pairs or pieces worked on. An agreed price is set per unit for each operation and the worker records the tag numbers of the lots on which he has worked. Employees are remunerated on the number of units completed.

Pigskin- leather made from the skin of pigs or hogs.

Plasticizer- chemical agent added to plastic compositions to make them softer and more flexible.

Piastisols- mixtures of resins and plasticizers which can be molded, cast or converted to continous films by the application of heat. If the mixtures contain volatile thinners also, they are known as Organosols.

Platen- the mounting plate of a press to which the mold assembly is bolted.

Plug/Vamp

Plug- a separate piece of leather inserted in the upper. It is not only an ornamental piece but is also a separate part of the upper pattern.

Polyethylene- a thermoplastic material composed of polymers of ethylene. It is normally a translucent, tough, waxy solid which is unaffected by water and a large range of chemicals. It is used for extrusion-cast plastic lasts, injection molded parts such as counters and shanks, and extrusion-blown film for packaging.

Polyurethane resins- a family of resins produced by reacting di-isocyanate with organic compounds containing two or more active hydrogens to form polymers having free isocyanate groups. These groups under the influence of heat or certain catalysts will react to form thermosetting materials. Polyurethanes are widely used as the finish for patent leathers, for the outer, breathable layer of manmade poromeric shoe upper materials, for adhesives, for heel lifts and for outsoles.

Polyvinyl chloride(PVC)- a thermoplastic material composed of polymers of vinyl chloride; a colorless solid with outstanding resistance to water, alcohols and concentrated acids and alkalies. It is obtainable in the form of granules, solutions, latices and pastes. Compounded with plasticizer it yields a flexible material superior to rubber in aging properties. It is widely used plastic for footwear applications, particularly for unit soles or direct molded outsoles. Also widely used for PVC coated fabric uppers, extruded welting, in cellular form for insoles.

Poromeric material- term coined by dupont, originally defined as a microporous and permeable coriaceous sheet material comprising a urethane polymer material reinforced with polyester. Used generically to describe manmade shoe upper materials which are generally similar in nature and appearance to leather and, in particular have a comparable permeability to water vapor.

Pulling over- Operation in which upper of a shoe is pulled over the last.

[Note: Please forgive me if the chemical names spelling are wrong.]

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Glossary of Terms N & O

Glossary of Terms N

Nap- the wooly or fuzzy surface finish of some fabrics and some leathers such as suede and antelope, reversed calf and side leather.

Neoprene- an elastomer, polychloroprene formed by adding hydrogen chloride to monovinylacetylene. First made by dupont in 1931, neoprene is widely used in footwear for outsole, heels and welting, to impregnate cellulose fibers for insoles and counters , and as an adhesive.
Nitrile rubber- copolymer of acrylonitrile and butadiene. Used for outsoles which may be cemented or sewn to uppers. This material has excellent oil and grease resistance. May be compounded with pvc to make a soling material.

Glossary of Terms O

Orthopedic devices- any device of leather, metal or other material included in the construction of a shoe or inserted in a shoe to prevent or correct foot defects and deformities.

Outsoles

Outsole- the bottom sole thickness the surface of which is exposed to wear.

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Glossary of terms M

Glossary of terms M

Manmades- materials made by chemical processes such as synthetic textile fibers and most plastics, or regenerated natural polymers such as cellulose and collagen to form paper, rayon or reconstituted leather. Most so-called natural rubber, also undergo extensive chemical processing in order to bring out or impart desirable properties.

Making- One of the major operations in shoe making. Outsole edges are finished, and a number of related operation completing the construction of a shoe are performed.
Marking- marking or stamping the size, case number, stock number, and similar information on the lining of a shoe. The stamping of trade names and numbers on socks linings, heel pads and soles is called branding or embossing because it is done with a heated brand or die.

Midsole- a sole of leather or other material placed between the outsole and the insole.

Model- frequently used to describe (1) and individual style in a line of footwear; (2) the paper patterns from which shoe cutting patterns are made; (3) the last from which a complete set of lasts is graded

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Glossary of I K L

Glossary of I:
Inseam- the hidden seam of a welted shoe holding together the welt, upper, lining and insole.

Instep- top part of the arch of a foot over the metatarsal bones from back of the toes to the ankle. Also the corresponding part of a shoe last.

Iron- term used for measuring the thickness of sole leather. One iron equals 1/48 in. (0.0283 in.). Three iron thickness is 1/16 in. and 12 iron is 1/4 in.

Isocyante resins- Most application for this resin are based on its combination with polyols (e.g. polyesters, polythers, etc). During this reaction, the reactants are joined through the formation of the urethane linkage.

Glossary of K:

Kid- originally referred to leathers made from the skins of immature goats, term is now used rather loosely to apply to glove and shoe leathers made from goat skins.


Glossary of L:

 Lap seam- the simplest form of seam used in sewing. Made by lapping one part slightly over the other and sewing through both. One or both of the parts so joined is usually skived along the edge to reduce the thickness.

Shoe Last

Last- form over which the shoe is made and which determines its shape. Although there are numerous types of lasts in common use, the basic differences are guided by the type of shoe construction. Lasts may be made of wood but are usually plastic.

Lasting- one of the most important operations of shoe making. Requires the shaping of the upper tightly o\to each contour of the last, the pulling and stretching of the upper so that there will be no wrinkled outer or lining parts and no crooked seams.

Lockstitch- a double thread stitch that locks the thread together within the material. It is distinguished in service by the fact that breaking one stitch does not permit the seam to be ravelled out.

Louis heel- high heels with a gracefully curved back, with a lip extending part way under shank resulting in a curved breast. Usually 16/18 to 24/8 in height, sometimes called French heel.

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Glossary of Terms-G & H

Glossary of Terms-G

Girth- distance around the last or foot measured at the toe joint(Technically, ball girth).

Grain- outer side of hide or skin including hair follicles which gives leather its surface character. Also surface of leather produced by special finishing processes such as embossing etc.

Glossary of Terms-H

Heat sealing- a method of joining plastics by simultaneous application of heat and pressure to areas in contact.

Heat setting- application of heat to lasted shoes, usually for a few minutes causing release of stress in the fibers of the upper material caused by the stretch of lasting. Heat setting can result in finished shoes with good fit and shape retention.

Heel breast- the part of the sole or shoe upper to which the heel is attached often shaped to form a rounded top which fits into the concave heel base.

Hide- pelt of a large animal such as cow, horse, etc.. as differentiated from calf, goat, pig, sheep and small animals which are designated as skins.

Hot melts- blends of a petroleum or paraffin wax with a thermoplastic resin such a EVA copolymers, nylons or polyesters. Hot melts are used as adhesives to provide tough, smooth coatings or to supply a stiffening or reinforcement which lends itself to shaping or lasting with the application of heat and pressure.

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