How to make a stitchdown shoe

 After received the material we are going to cut the leather with the cutting knife(die). See bellow a stitch down upper components.

Upper cut components of a stitch down shoe.

 After cutting all component of a pair of shoe quality checked the components. If the components are OK then quality pass it to the sewing dept for sewing.

Sewing: Sewing dept. attach every part/component of shoe with proper stitch same as the approval shoe sample. If the shoe has lining, sewing dept. attach the lining. That means sewing dept. makes the complete upper from the components. After completing the upper sewing quality check every individual upper and send it through the lasting section for assembling. See bellow a ready upper of the shoe.

Lasting or Assembling:  All shoes are finished at this department. A lot of job has been done here to make a quality shoe. This is where all the parts of a shoe assemble. We are in a process of a stitch down shoe. See bellow how a operation wise lasting line set for a stitch down shoe.

OPERATIONS Counter Moulding Input Upper and Last Insole Board attach Cementing Toe Steam Toe Lasting Toe Pressure Side lasting Side pressure and cutter Stitching Sole primer Cementing Sole joint Sole Pressure Sole side cutter Sole Side buffing Sole side finishing Sole Side trimming Unlasting Cosmetic Operation Side gap reparing Cementing for socks Putting Socks Attach sticker Sole cleaning Insert tissue

Read More

California, DIP and DVP Construction

California Construction: In this process the upper, socks and the wrapper are sewn together. The last is then forced into the upper. Unlike other shoes, there is no opportunity  to take up the surplus upper  into the lasting allowance, so all the parts must be cut and stitched accurately. After the insertion of the last the insole or platform or mid sole is carefully stuck-on to the socks with in the stitched area by means of a suitable adhesive. Then the wrapper is lasted on it. The filler is inserted into the gap. After scouring the wrapper, the sole is cemented on by proper adhesive and pressed the shoe by air pressure to ensure good attachment.

California Process

This type of construction is used mainly  for casual and leisure type footwear particularly for ladies and children open toe and open heel shoes.

Identifying characteristics:

California shoes are often of the open toe and open heel pattern.

They have the wrapper sewn to the upper.

The advantages of this process is that they are extremely flexible and comfortable.

DIP(Direct injection moulding process):

In this process either sock lasted or string lasted upper is pressed to a sole shaped mould. The PVC sole compound is injected and it forms a permanent bond with the upper.

DIP Process

In this process for textile and vibox application of primer and cement is necessary and in case of leather lasting margin should be roughened. In this case the sole has long wear ability.

Many men’s work shoes, some casuals, children shoes and canvas footwear are made by the DIP process.

Identifying characteristics:

1.Area in contact with the foot is smooth and comfortable.

2. No stitches.

3.The sole in many cases extending over the side edges is bound to the upper.

Advantages:

1.Soles are attached to the upper in a single operation.

2.Shoes wear longer and offer good performance with completely water resistant.

DVP (Direct vulcanizing process):

In this process the sock or string lasted upper along with rubber soling material and in some cases rubber foxing is pressed at about 160 degree centigrade and at 3kg/cm2 pressure. The rubber becomes vulcanized with in 2.5 to 3 minutes.

In this case the sole has long wear ability.

Read More

Stitch down and Goodyear welt constructions

Stitchdown: This is the only one construction where the lasting allowance is turned outwards. The insole is larger than the last. The upper outside curved edge is cement lasted to the  insole. In some cases  a  thin micro cellular mid sole is also temporarily cemented with the insole. The sole itself  is also cemented and all the elements are bound together by stitching. The excess material from the side to be cut before trimming.

STITCHDOWN CONSTRUCTION

This process may or may not  have the  welt. Single or double sole can be used for any desired thickness.


 Identifying characteristics:

No stitching or metal parts are visible inside the shoe. On examination of the shoe it is noticeable that where the upper meets the insole, the edge of the upper turned outside and is inline  the edge of the insole. Advantage of this type of construction is that the shoes are strong and flexible.

You May Like a Clarks Desert Boots Review which is followed by Stitch down Construction.

Goodyear welt:This is an indirect method of attachment of sole, upper and welt. One of the major characteristics of this process is the use of an insole with an upstanding wall or rib. First the rib of the insole, the upper and the welt are sewn together. Then the sole and the welt are stitched together. The process is mainly used for men’s dress shoes and in industrial footwear.

Goodyear Welt Process

Advantages:

The welt being attached to the insole and the sole makes the shoe relatively water repellent.

It is very flexible light and comfortable.

Easy to repair.

It is a strong construction and has the ability to keep its shape under heavy wear.

Identifying characteristics:

Inside the shoe is free from stitches, tacks or staples except for the small portion of the heel seat.

2. It shows the stitches among the upper, welt and insole.



For more you can see Understanding shoe construction: Goodyear welt shoe
And Goodyear welted construction
 Get the shoe making books from amazon.

Also see  stitchdown shoes on amazon.

Read More