Glossary of Terms-E

Glossary of Terms-E

Edge finish- after the edge of the shoe is trimmed, it is stained with the desired color ink or a natural dressing is applied. Over this a film of hard wax is applied under the pressure of a heated iron.

Edge setting- finishing the edge of the soles with polish or wax applied under heavy pressure with a hot vibrating iron or by rubbing.

Edge trimming- the first operation in finishing the sole edge is that of trimming. The edge trimmer finishes the outline of the sole and shapes the edge. This is done by machine using rotary cutting wheels.

Edging- beveling a narrow scarf from leather or fabric, particularly where upper parts are joined by other than lap seams or where upper edges are finished by burnishing. The work is done on a skiving machine.

Elastomer- a material which stretches at room temperature under low stress to at least twice its length and snaps back to the original length upon release of stress.

Epoxy resins- can be formulated into excellent adhesives, some of which are used in footwear for heavy duty applications such as the cementing of outsoles for use in adverse environments.

Ethylene- vinyl acetate (EVA)-copolymers from these two monomers from a class of  plastic materials. They retain many of the properties of polyethyelene but have considerably increased flexibility for their density. Elongation and impact resistance are also increased. Has been used for outsoles. Blended with petroleum wax. EVA is used extensively for hot melt cement.

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How to make a stitchdown shoe

 After received the material we are going to cut the leather with the cutting knife(die). See bellow a stitch down upper components.

Upper cut components of a stitch down shoe.

 After cutting all component of a pair of shoe quality checked the components. If the components are OK then quality pass it to the sewing dept for sewing.

Sewing: Sewing dept. attach every part/component of shoe with proper stitch same as the approval shoe sample. If the shoe has lining, sewing dept. attach the lining. That means sewing dept. makes the complete upper from the components. After completing the upper sewing quality check every individual upper and send it through the lasting section for assembling. See bellow a ready upper of the shoe.

Lasting or Assembling:  All shoes are finished at this department. A lot of job has been done here to make a quality shoe. This is where all the parts of a shoe assemble. We are in a process of a stitch down shoe. See bellow how a operation wise lasting line set for a stitch down shoe.

OPERATIONS Counter Moulding Input Upper and Last Insole Board attach Cementing Toe Steam Toe Lasting Toe Pressure Side lasting Side pressure and cutter Stitching Sole primer Cementing Sole joint Sole Pressure Sole side cutter Sole Side buffing Sole side finishing Sole Side trimming Unlasting Cosmetic Operation Side gap reparing Cementing for socks Putting Socks Attach sticker Sole cleaning Insert tissue

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Different types of shoe construction

For shoe making you have to know the different type construction. Here is the most usable construction for you.

See a video with different type of shoes. For more go to Youtube

• Cemented construction


• Moccasin Construction


• McKay stitch(Machine sewn) construction


• Stitch down  construction


• Goodyear welt construction


• California construction


• DIP (Direct injection moulding process)


• DVP(Direct vulcanizing process)

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California, DIP and DVP Construction

California Construction: In this process the upper, socks and the wrapper are sewn together. The last is then forced into the upper. Unlike other shoes, there is no opportunity  to take up the surplus upper  into the lasting allowance, so all the parts must be cut and stitched accurately. After the insertion of the last the insole or platform or mid sole is carefully stuck-on to the socks with in the stitched area by means of a suitable adhesive. Then the wrapper is lasted on it. The filler is inserted into the gap. After scouring the wrapper, the sole is cemented on by proper adhesive and pressed the shoe by air pressure to ensure good attachment.

California Process

This type of construction is used mainly  for casual and leisure type footwear particularly for ladies and children open toe and open heel shoes.

Identifying characteristics:

California shoes are often of the open toe and open heel pattern.

They have the wrapper sewn to the upper.

The advantages of this process is that they are extremely flexible and comfortable.

DIP(Direct injection moulding process):

In this process either sock lasted or string lasted upper is pressed to a sole shaped mould. The PVC sole compound is injected and it forms a permanent bond with the upper.

DIP Process

In this process for textile and vibox application of primer and cement is necessary and in case of leather lasting margin should be roughened. In this case the sole has long wear ability.

Many men’s work shoes, some casuals, children shoes and canvas footwear are made by the DIP process.

Identifying characteristics:

1.Area in contact with the foot is smooth and comfortable.

2. No stitches.

3.The sole in many cases extending over the side edges is bound to the upper.

Advantages:

1.Soles are attached to the upper in a single operation.

2.Shoes wear longer and offer good performance with completely water resistant.

DVP (Direct vulcanizing process):

In this process the sock or string lasted upper along with rubber soling material and in some cases rubber foxing is pressed at about 160 degree centigrade and at 3kg/cm2 pressure. The rubber becomes vulcanized with in 2.5 to 3 minutes.

In this case the sole has long wear ability.

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