How to make a stitchdown shoe

 After received the material we are going to cut the leather with the cutting knife(die). See bellow a stitch down upper components.

Upper cut components of a stitch down shoe.

 After cutting all component of a pair of shoe quality checked the components. If the components are OK then quality pass it to the sewing dept for sewing.

Sewing: Sewing dept. attach every part/component of shoe with proper stitch same as the approval shoe sample. If the shoe has lining, sewing dept. attach the lining. That means sewing dept. makes the complete upper from the components. After completing the upper sewing quality check every individual upper and send it through the lasting section for assembling. See bellow a ready upper of the shoe.

Lasting or Assembling:  All shoes are finished at this department. A lot of job has been done here to make a quality shoe. This is where all the parts of a shoe assemble. We are in a process of a stitch down shoe. See bellow how a operation wise lasting line set for a stitch down shoe.

OPERATIONS Counter Moulding Input Upper and Last Insole Board attach Cementing Toe Steam Toe Lasting Toe Pressure Side lasting Side pressure and cutter Stitching Sole primer Cementing Sole joint Sole Pressure Sole side cutter Sole Side buffing Sole side finishing Sole Side trimming Unlasting Cosmetic Operation Side gap reparing Cementing for socks Putting Socks Attach sticker Sole cleaning Insert tissue

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Strictly Indoor shoes

The empress Josephine of France reportedly showed her shoe maker a dance slipper that developed a hole after just one wearing. "Ah, i see what the problem is, Madame," he exclaimed. "You have walked in them!" Clearly, the slipper is a special kind of shoe. As the name implies, a "slipper" is a covering into which a foot is easily slipped; worn by both women and men, the indoor shoe is soft-soled and lightweight. The mule, although sometimes called a slipper, is a backless shoe that can be worn outdoors as well as indoors. Often wonderfully decorated and considered the epitome of comfort, slippers have been widely worn for centuries. Ins Europe and North America, slippers were once footwear for the privileged few, but mass production in the 19th century enabled ordinary people to slip into them readily- which they have done with pleasure ever since.

The Gold-Embroidered Indore shoe

These gold-embroidered mules are from late 19th century Europe; in spite of their delicate appearance, the mules were probably worn both indoors and outside.

House Shoe-Indore shoe

These examples of 19th century men's "house shoes", also popularly called slippers in their time, feature elaborate needlework. The slippers were frequently made at home by women for their husbands and sons.

Slippers-Indoor shoes

 Both slippers are from 19th century Italy. The man's slipper(left) and woman's slipper(right) feature gold-embossed Florentine work of flowers and leaves, a decorative touch that was very fashionable at that time.

Luxury Indoor shoes

Three mules from 17th century Europe make use of luxury fabrics; fine silk embroidery (left), silver lace over velvet (middle) and brocaded Chinese silk(right). During this period, mules were popular with both men and women.

Indoor shoes of US,1980

The elaborately embroidered and decorated mules with matching ribbons are from the United States, mid-1800s. Although they could have been worn outdoors, they probably never were.

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Exclusive shoes- The boots of musiam

Boots originated in Arctic Asia and over time spread across the globe's Arctic region. Certainly, boots are the dominant traditional footwear for natives of the area stretching from northern Asia to Alaska, northern Canada, Greenland, Lapland and on back to northern Siberia. As well as fulfilling their main purpose as protective and functional cold-climate footwear, boots are often social artifacts--such as Inuit boots whose external designs communicate information about their owners. Boots that protect wearers from desert heat and mountain cold are found in other parts of the world. The basic concept and construction of boots has changed very little over time.

Salmonskin boot

From the Yupik culture of arctic Alaska, this salmonskin boot has pre-formed sealskin sole.

Hunter's & waterproof Boot

Traditional boot-making skills render this typical Alaskan Inuit seal hunter's boot, made from sealskin and sewn with sinew, effectively waterproof.

Hausa camel-riding boots

 These early 20th-century Hausa camel-riding boots from sub-Saharan Africa are decorated with woven leather. The divided toes enable the wearer to grip a knotted strap. The boots protect the legs from sun, sand and chafing.

Wool boots

About a century ago, this pair of wool boots with turned-up toes and heavy, layered soles was worn by a Tibetan official- probably for a long time, too, given their condition.

Colorful-trimmed Boot

This colorful felt-trimmed pair of boots was made by Finnish Sami from reindeer skin. The soles are sewn with the pelt going in different directions to prevent slipping. A distinctive feature is the pointed, turned-up toe.

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Exclusive shoes- The universal Sandal

Sandal were the basic footwear of such ancient civilization of Egypt, Greece and Rome. Sandal have been the dominant footwear in the hot climate region of Africa, Asia and the American for centuries. After all sandal are made to order for torrid zones, since their firm soles protect the feet from scorching surfaces, while the minimal uppers allow air to circulate freely. In the 20th century the sandal has been reborn in Europe and north America as fashion footwear.
Some Exclusive Sandals:

1. From Pakistan-Afghanistan border

1. Wooden sandals with toe and heel stilts have been widely worn in Asia and Africa' this pair, attached to the feet with leather toe thongs, comes from the Pakistan-Afghanistan border.

2. A pair of Sandal From 19th Century

2. These sandals from 19th century Japan are made of iron. Hemp rope laces threaded through a series of iron loops on the perimeter bind the sandals to the feet.

3. Padukas, Chakris or Kharrows

3. Since cow-leather footwear was not traditionally popular within the Hindu religion, sandals from India were made of wood, ivory or metal, such as the three pictured here, and were variously called "Padukas, Chakris or Kharrows". The toe-knob grip is also a distinctive and centuries-old frature.

4. A high-heeled Swiss sandal

4. A high-heeled Swiss sandal of silk and kid belongs to the sandal revival of the 1930s. The sandal has remained a fashion staple on women's wardrobes ever since.

5. Concave rawhide sandals

5. These concave rawhide sandals with toe loops are from the Acholi people of Uganda and are about 100 years old; the hide has been incised, then pogmented, which results in their colourful pattern.

6. These square-toed, thick-soled sandals are from the Amazon region of South America. The soles are made from readily accessible tapir hide, and rope is attached to form toe loops and heel straps.

7.  Crocodile-shaped Sandal

7. Some sandals visually reflect their geographic origins, such as this crocodile-shaped model that comes from, appropriately, the lagoon district of Ghana.

8 .Flexible Sandal

8. A sandal from Somalia is designed for desert wear. The layered leather sole protect the feet from heat, while the upturned fronts enable the wearer to walk more easily, with a rolling gait, on sand.

Try Here for cheap Sandals

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Different types of shoe construction

For shoe making you have to know the different type construction. Here is the most usable construction for you.

See a video with different type of shoes. For more go to Youtube

• Cemented construction


• Moccasin Construction


• McKay stitch(Machine sewn) construction


• Stitch down  construction


• Goodyear welt construction


• California construction


• DIP (Direct injection moulding process)


• DVP(Direct vulcanizing process)

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California, DIP and DVP Construction

California Construction: In this process the upper, socks and the wrapper are sewn together. The last is then forced into the upper. Unlike other shoes, there is no opportunity  to take up the surplus upper  into the lasting allowance, so all the parts must be cut and stitched accurately. After the insertion of the last the insole or platform or mid sole is carefully stuck-on to the socks with in the stitched area by means of a suitable adhesive. Then the wrapper is lasted on it. The filler is inserted into the gap. After scouring the wrapper, the sole is cemented on by proper adhesive and pressed the shoe by air pressure to ensure good attachment.

California Process

This type of construction is used mainly  for casual and leisure type footwear particularly for ladies and children open toe and open heel shoes.

Identifying characteristics:

California shoes are often of the open toe and open heel pattern.

They have the wrapper sewn to the upper.

The advantages of this process is that they are extremely flexible and comfortable.

DIP(Direct injection moulding process):

In this process either sock lasted or string lasted upper is pressed to a sole shaped mould. The PVC sole compound is injected and it forms a permanent bond with the upper.

DIP Process

In this process for textile and vibox application of primer and cement is necessary and in case of leather lasting margin should be roughened. In this case the sole has long wear ability.

Many men’s work shoes, some casuals, children shoes and canvas footwear are made by the DIP process.

Identifying characteristics:

1.Area in contact with the foot is smooth and comfortable.

2. No stitches.

3.The sole in many cases extending over the side edges is bound to the upper.

Advantages:

1.Soles are attached to the upper in a single operation.

2.Shoes wear longer and offer good performance with completely water resistant.

DVP (Direct vulcanizing process):

In this process the sock or string lasted upper along with rubber soling material and in some cases rubber foxing is pressed at about 160 degree centigrade and at 3kg/cm2 pressure. The rubber becomes vulcanized with in 2.5 to 3 minutes.

In this case the sole has long wear ability.

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Different type of shoes as per design-1

As per design type there are the following type of shoes are available.


True Moccasin:

A True Moccasin

• Upper material passes under the foot without seams


• Has an apron on top and is hand sewn together


• Most flexible type of construction.

Oxford Shoe:

A Oxford Shoe

• A general term indicating a low-cut shoe with lacing over the strep.


• Front edges of the quarter are stitched under each the rear edge (throat and wings) so that the eyelet facings (or tabs) cannot see palate at the bottom.


• Comes in many variations.

Derby Shoe:

A Derby Shoe

• Different from the oxford only in that the front edges of the quarters are stitched on top of the vamp and only as far as the tabs so these can open.
• Usually a different corner between the front of the tab and the curve of the side seam instead of a continuous curve.

Pump:

Pump Shoe

• A low-cut design exposing the instep and because it fits snugly it has no means of fastening.

• Variation include: D'orsy and Gore.

Sneaker:

Sneaker Shoe

• Has light weight moulded or injected sole and textile upper material.


• Sometimes has a cord wrapped all around a cemented sole.

See More..............

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