Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Basic of shoes

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Parts of Shoe Upper
  • Objective
              The purpose of this module is to familiarize you with the:
  • Basic Parts of a shoe
  • Shoe materials
  • Shoe styles
  • Shoe constructions
  • Basic parts of a shoe
The two major parts of a shoe are the upper and the bottom
  • Upper: The upper is comprised of the:
    • Quarters: The quarters enclose the sides and back of the foot and are joined at the back seam.
    • Vamp: The vamp covers the toe and forepart or front of the shoe.
    • Toe/toe cap: The toe/toe cap refers only to the foremost (most forward) area of the shoe.
    • Feather edge: The feather edge is not really part of the upper . It is the lower extremity where the upper meets the sole or insole.
    • Lasting Allowance: When the patterns are cut, an additional margin of material is added to the feather edge fro stitching. This is what is called the lasting allowance.
    • Counter: A simple shoe is made up of two quarters, which are joined at the back. It is sometimes desirable, however, to eliminate this back heel seam so that the back of the shoe is cut as one piece. When this is done, that one piece is called a counter.
    • Wing Cap: The wing cap os a conventional toe cap set squarely across the shoe. A wing cap is angled back to give a streamline effect.
    • Tongue: The tongue is a strip of material found under the lacing or fastening of the shoe. A vamp may have a separate tongue or the vamp and tongue may be cut all in one piece.
    • Quarter facings: The front panels at the lace-up area of the shoe are called facings or quarter facings. The facings may either be separate piece or part of the quarter.
    • Topline or quarter topline: the top of the shoe which surrounds the opening of the foot is called the topline or quarter topline.
    • Backstrap: Since the heel seam is often subjected to considerable strain both in lasting and wear. It is common to reinforce it with backstrap.
All the upper pieces are fully lined with one or more linings. The linings of the shoe help grip the foot and cover the inside materials.
Bottom Parts of a shoe
  • Bottom: The bottom is comprised of the:
    • Sole: The sole is the layer of material covering bottom of the shoe and it is the walking surface of the shoe.
    • Heel: The heel is the component of the shoe that supports the back part of the foot (Lifts from the layer of material used to build up the heel; the top lift is the wearing layer of the heel). Today most soles and heels are pre-fabricated as a single bottoming unit, eliminating a series of operations on the assembly line and reducing costs.
    • Insole: The insole is the inner component of the shoe and it is considered to be the foundation of the shoe since the upper is attached to it. It is made from materials that will absorb moisture from perspiration and it is molded to conform to the bottom of the last before the upper is lasted to ensure the comfort and the shape of the shoe.
    • Shank: The shank is a strip of metal, or other material, shaped to the inside profile of the last to reinforce the waist of the shoe so it is comfortable and maintains its shape during wear.
    • Bottom filling: The bottom filling is a flexible material used to fill the cavity between the insole and the sole.
    • Sock: The sock is a piece of material shaped to cover or part of the insole. It is inserted into the completed shoe and usually bears the shoe brand name.
To be continued 
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