Standart Data Manual For Upper Cutting Manipulation Of Shoe-3

Hello everyone. This is final part of the article. You can Visit First Part and Second Part if you need.

In this part we are discuss about Upper Leather Manipulation.

Cutting Methods: The cutting of a skin/hide is a specialized skill, and can only be acquired after many years of practice. Cutting does not only consist in the art of holding a knife or operating a clicking machine, it consists mainly in knowing how to rapidly place the patterns or the knife, and knowing the area to be cut. The difficulty of this work lies in the fact that the skin is irregular structure or value. A good cutter will always be cost minded and get maximum utilization from a skin/hide.

A good cutter must know how to use the maximum the various parts of the skin. Before cutting the skin, the following must be known:

• The defects which exist on both sides of the skin/hide (grain and flesh)
• The direction of stretch.

The vamps and overlays are cut from the bend- these are the main components of the upper which support all the walking flexions, therefore, they must be of the best quality.

Quarters are cut mainly from the belly.

Shoe Component

To cut an upper, the knives must be placed in such a way that the direction of the stretch coincides with the width of the piece.

A skin does not always present the same direction of stretch everywhere and the same quality. A perfect knowledge of the skin permits a good utilization of the skin.

In certain types of skins, particularly suede, there are various shades which should be cut and manipulated by pairs.

To cut a whole skin, it must be placed on the machine, head first, and starting at the left rear legs, working towards the right and placing the knives in such a way as to leave the least possible waste.

The cutter begins the manipulation form the left rear leg, cutting first the quarters. The fronts of the quarters must always converge towards the center of the skin.

The cutting operation in progresses towards the right in such a way, to cut a horizontal strip of the skin, since the quality of skin in this horizontal strip should be consistent.

Before cutting each component, the cutter must insure that the position of the skin leaves a suitable area for the following components. He must position the pieces together, because the smallest amount of abnormal waste often repeated is the cause of important losses.

Bellies and neck areas or those with slight defects, can be cut for inside quarters, which will be reinforced by counters when the shoe is finished. Certain of defects can be in the uppers, provided that they will be part of the lasting margin in the lasted shoe.

Knives: The knives which the cutter uses are manufactured from Swedish steel, are light and easy to Handle, and give very good results. Double edge cutting knives should be sued wherever possible, this minimizes the number of knives required, so reducing cost. The are two heights of knives:

1. 19 mm for leather
2. 31 mm for textiles and other multi layer cutting

Cutting Block: The blocks on which skins are cut where originally made of wood, but are now usually made of composition rubber or phenolic resin block which last much longer. 

The operator should always use the entire surface area of the block to wear it uniformly, this saves knives and improves cutting quality.

Leather Cutting Machine

Safety on Machines: The double control system on cutting machines requires both the cutter's hand to be on top of the machine, so ensuring that he/she cannot get his/her hands caught between the cutting head and the knife

That's all for now. This is the summery cutting method.

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Standart Data Manual For Upper Cutting Manipulation Of Shoe-2

This is the second part of the article. You can read the Standard Data Manual First part.


Direction of Stretch

Direction of Stretch

The skin stretches differently according to the particular area.


In order to manufacture shoes without defects, it is necessary to know the direction of the stretch. To do this, fold together the left front leg to the right back leg, to produce two diagonal lines. In tracing perpendiculars to these lines, the direction of the stretch is found. The stretch is very noticeable on the sides (legs, belly, butt, shoulder). It starts to diminish and disappear completely at the centre of the bend. This applies to almost all skins, with the exception of kid, which stretch in all directions.


A component must always be cut so that the direction of the stretch follows the width of the piece, that is avoid cutting the stretch direction along side the piece.


To be continue for the final part.

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Standart Data Manual for Upper Cutting Manipulation of Shoe-1

The method of Cutting "Uppers" from a skin is a great importance, and is necessary for cutter to know the structure of the skin/hide. The cutter must know which parts of the skin have better physical properties, the direction of the stretch and the nature and origin of the various defects.

The various parts of a skin or hide
The outside of the skin called  "grain" and the inside the "flesh".
The various parts of the skin are

Section of the skin/hide.

• The bend 
• Butt
• Shoulder
• Belly 
• Cheeks and
• The legs.

Bend: The bend is a part of the skin which covers the central part of the back of the animal. It is regular in thickness and also more resistant than other parts of the skin. This resistance diminishes towards the shoulder and the belly. The thickness, quality and size of the bend can vary according to the size or the type of skins.

Butt: The but is the lower part of the bend, and is not always even in thickness.

Shoulder: The shoulder covers the neck of the animal and is generally thick, especially in skin from male animals. It is lower quality than that of the bend and butt, since it is more spongy and shrivelled.

Belly: The belly, being the part of the body which is subject to most movement, i.e. breathing, has a different structure to other parts of the skin in that it has longer fiber which make it easier or stretch.

Cheeks & Legs: The cheek and leg have similar characteristics as the belly, and are the least usable parts of the skin.

To be continued for second part.

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Basic of Shoes- Bottom Parts

Last part of the Basic of shoes series. Here is the first three parts
1. Basic of Shoes
2. Basic of Shoes- Leather Upper
3. Basic of shoes- Synthetic and Others

• Rubber: Rubber is used for the upper when the sole is made of the same material.
• Bottoms: The types of materials commonly used in shoe bottoms are:
• Leather
• Rubber
• Plastic

• Leather: The larger and thicker leather skins are used for bottoms. The insoles are cut from the bellies and the outsoles from the skin cut along the backbone where the leather has the greatest abrasion resistance. The properties of leather of bottoms are:
• Great abrasion resistance
• Expensive: Leather is generally more expensive then most rubbers or plastic. That is why it is mainly used in high quality footwear.
• Less durable than most other materials: Leather is chosen for its attractive appearance rather than durability, which is lower compared with most other materials.

• Rubber: Rubber can be:
• Natural
• Synthetic(SBR)

          The properties of rubber for bottoms are:

• Hard wearing
• Flexible
• Waterproof
• Easier and less expensive to produce than leather

               Today, most types of rubber are likely to be based on the general-purpose synthetic rubber denoted S.B.R., rather than the traditional natural rubber obtained from rubber trees. Soles made from these two types of rubber are vulcanized (except crepe) and have similar properties. Vulcanized soles are sometimes referred to as "Composition rubbers" because they are made up of a number of ingredients added to the basic rubber to control the properties. Some black compounds may have a tendency to mark floors depending on the quantity of carbon black in the mix. The soles are used in a wide variety of footwear from heavy-duty to general purpose.

• Rubber bottoms vary in type, including:
• Translucent rubber-vulcanized: Translucent rubber is a high-quality vulcanized rubber, either natural or synthetic. It contain silica and it is usually available in "natural" colors ranging from off-white to light brown.
• Resin rubber-vulcanized: Resin rubber was developed in the early 1950s to simulate leather. It is a firm type of vulcanized rubber based on a synthetic SNR-rubber, reinforced with a high styrene resin.
• Microcellular rubber-vulcanized: Microcellular rubber is basically a resin rubber with a cellular structure. During vulcanization the rubber is expanded by a blowing agent which forms numerous small, non-interconnection cells.
• Sponger rubber-vulcanized: Sponge rubber is used for sole for felt or cloth slippers. It has a spongy, cellular structure and it is covered with a thin, solid skin. it is vulcanized directly to the upper.
• Crepe-not vulcanized: Crepe is obtained directly from the rubber latex, the milky liquid from rubber trees, by coagulation the rubber particles and milling them into sheets. It is lightweight, flexible, hard-wearing and comfortable to wear. The downside of crepe is that it will deteriorate if contaminated by oil, petrol or chemicals. If subjected to heat, sole will discolor and become soft and tacky. It is frequently used for soles of stitchdown shoes and sandals.

• Plastic: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is cement lasted as a molded unit or directly injected to the upper. PVC is the main synthetic used for shoe soling. The PVC polymer is hard, but when used for soling it is softened by the addition of plasticisers. It can be either used as "direct injection" to the upper or as a stuck-on unit, "Cement lasted." The Properties of PVC bottoms are:

• Hard wearing
• Flexible
• Soft
• Can slip when cold

• Thermoplastic Rubber (TPR) is directly injected to the upper. TPR can be injection molded. It was originally developed for soling to simulate crepe and soft vulcanized rubbers. The properties of TPR of bottoms are:
• Looks and feels rubbery
• Lighter than vulcanized rubber or PVC
• Good traction
• Excellent cold track resistance
• Low cost

• Ethylene Vinyl Acetate (EVA) is used in an expanded form. Normally used in expanded form either on its own or blended with S.B.R. It is used fro outsole in lightweight footwear and midsoles in trainers. The properties of EVA for bottoms are:
• Much lighter than conventional SBRs microcellular rubbers but with the same durability.
• Flexible and resilient
• Good ground insulation
• Used as outsoles in lightweight footwear
• Used as midsoles in trainers.

• Polyurethane(PU) can be blended to be solid, cellular, flexible or rigid. Normally for shoe the blend is a flexible cellular structure. For top-pieces the solid, rigid from is used. PU is a very hard wearing polymer resistant to most chemicals. Used frequently as a two-part sole material with a thin solid PU-polymer and a blown PU-material for most of the sole making. It is frequently used for safety footwear. The properties of PU for bottoms are:
• Light in weight, flexible and resilient 
• Good ground insulation
• Most durable of the cellular soling.

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Basic of shoes-Leather Upper

 This is the second part of basic of shoe. See the first part.

• Shoe Materials
• Upper: The type of materials commonly used in shoe uppers are:
• Leather 
• Synthetics
• Fabrics
• Rubber

• Leather: Leather can be made from the skin of any animal:
• Cattle 
• Sheep
• Fish
• Bird
• Reptile

             Cattle, Cow or buffalo are the main source of supply although exotic materials such as ostrich, crocodile, etc. are sometimes used.

• The skin of most animals consists of three main layers, the:
• Grain: The grain is the outermost on the animal. Best leather have the grain layer intact. Flawed leather have the grain buffed or corrected before finishing. Buffing is done by applying a surface of an abrasive wheel to give the grain a degree of nap or "Sueding". Examples of buffed leather are the "brushed" pigskin, buck, nubuck (calf-imitating buck). "Velvet" suede's are also lightly buffet as well as some grain leathers, just enough to give a Matt surface without masking the grain pattern. Thick leather are split into two separate layers known as the "grain split" and the "flesh split." The latter is used as a "suede split" with either the flesh side ot the split side uppermost. Most suede's are made from splits without the grain.
• Corium: The corium is the main or central layer. The corium has thicker fibers that provide most of the material strength.
• Flesh: The flesh is a thin layer between the corium and the actual flesh of the animal. The flesh is of little value in the finished leather and it is usually partly or wholly removed.

• The skin is converted to leather through process called tanning. The two types of tanning are:
• Chrome: Chrome tanning is the most widely used tanning process today. The hides are placed in large revolving drum, where they are soaked and agitated in a solution of chromium sulfate. The leather turns blue or green as a result of the tanning. After removal from the drums the skins are split and shaved for even thickness.
• Vegetable: Vegetable tanning is a slow process. It uses extracts of bark, wood, etc. It is now used only for sole leather.

• The hide is divided into:
• Five sections for upper leather
• Bend: The bend is the central part of the hide. It has the best quality and it is the most wear resistant. It is used for vamps.
• Shoulder: The shoulder is the neck part of the animal. It has some defects (Wrinkles around the neck). It is used for making tongues.
• Butt: The butt is the back part of the animal and it is not very good quality. It is used for linings.
• Head and Feet: The head and feet are the worst part of the hide and they are not generally used.
• Belly: The belly being the part of the body which subjected to most movements, it has a different structure than other parts. It has longer fibers, which make it easier to stretch. It is one of the poorest parts of the hide.

• Three sections for sole leather
• Bend: The bend covers the back of the animal from the groin to the first wrinkle of the neck. It is a good quality leather and it is the most wearesistant are. It is the best leather for soles.
• Shoulder: The shoulder is the part covering the neck. It is of a lesser quality and it is used for making insoles, counters, etc.

• The skin stretch varies according to the particular area of the body of the animal. A shoe component must always be cut so that the direction of stretch follows the width of the piece.

 This is to avoid cutting the stretch direction along side the piece. It must be tight in the heel-to-toe direction.

Leather stretch area

• The properties of leather for uppers are:
• Plasticity: The properties and appearance of leather makes it very suitable for shoe uppers. Plasticity is the ability to retain a stretched shape. It enables the upper to take the shape of the last in shoe making and to "give" in wear should the shoes be fitted a little tight, but not so much that the shoes lose their shape completely.

• Perspiration absorption and transmission of it as water vapor: Leather usually absorbs large quantities of perspiration and, depending on the finish, transmits it as water vapor. The ability to do this is most desirable for foot comfort, especially in men's footwear. The ability to transmit moisture is affected by the type of finish applied to the outer surface. A patent finish, for example, is impermeable, as are scuff-resistant coatings used on some children's shoes.

                The permeability of leather means that normally, it is not completely waterproof. However, most types are sufficiently water-repellent for normal wear that does not involve long periods of wear under wet conditions. (The water resistance can be improved by special treatments).

• Resistant: Most leathers have good resistance to flexing in walking.
• Expensive: Leather is one of the most expensive materials used for shoe uppers.
• Traditional: Leather has been used for hundreds of years in shoe construction.

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Basic of shoes

Parts of Shoe Upper

• Objective

              The purpose of this module is to familiarize you with the:

• Basic Parts of a shoe
• Shoe materials
• Shoe styles
• Shoe constructions

• Basic parts of a shoe

The two major parts of a shoe are the upper and the bottom

• Upper: The upper is comprised of the:
• Quarters: The quarters enclose the sides and back of the foot and are joined at the back seam.
• Vamp: The vamp covers the toe and forepart or front of the shoe.
• Toe/toe cap: The toe/toe cap refers only to the foremost (most forward) area of the shoe.
• Feather edge: The feather edge is not really part of the upper . It is the lower extremity where the upper meets the sole or insole.
• Lasting Allowance: When the patterns are cut, an additional margin of material is added to the feather edge fro stitching. This is what is called the lasting allowance.
• Counter: A simple shoe is made up of two quarters, which are joined at the back. It is sometimes desirable, however, to eliminate this back heel seam so that the back of the shoe is cut as one piece. When this is done, that one piece is called a counter.
• Wing Cap: The wing cap os a conventional toe cap set squarely across the shoe. A wing cap is angled back to give a streamline effect.
• Tongue: The tongue is a strip of material found under the lacing or fastening of the shoe. A vamp may have a separate tongue or the vamp and tongue may be cut all in one piece.
• Quarter facings: The front panels at the lace-up area of the shoe are called facings or quarter facings. The facings may either be separate piece or part of the quarter.
• Topline or quarter topline: the top of the shoe which surrounds the opening of the foot is called the topline or quarter topline.
• Backstrap: Since the heel seam is often subjected to considerable strain both in lasting and wear. It is common to reinforce it with backstrap.

All the upper pieces are fully lined with one or more linings. The linings of the shoe help grip the foot and cover the inside materials.

Bottom Parts of a shoe

• Bottom: The bottom is comprised of the:
• Sole: The sole is the layer of material covering bottom of the shoe and it is the walking surface of the shoe.
• Heel: The heel is the component of the shoe that supports the back part of the foot (Lifts from the layer of material used to build up the heel; the top lift is the wearing layer of the heel). Today most soles and heels are pre-fabricated as a single bottoming unit, eliminating a series of operations on the assembly line and reducing costs.
• Insole: The insole is the inner component of the shoe and it is considered to be the foundation of the shoe since the upper is attached to it. It is made from materials that will absorb moisture from perspiration and it is molded to conform to the bottom of the last before the upper is lasted to ensure the comfort and the shape of the shoe.
• Shank: The shank is a strip of metal, or other material, shaped to the inside profile of the last to reinforce the waist of the shoe so it is comfortable and maintains its shape during wear.
• Bottom filling: The bottom filling is a flexible material used to fill the cavity between the insole and the sole.
• Sock: The sock is a piece of material shaped to cover or part of the insole. It is inserted into the completed shoe and usually bears the shoe brand name.

To be continued 

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How to make a stitchdown shoe

 After received the material we are going to cut the leather with the cutting knife(die). See bellow a stitch down upper components.

Upper cut components of a stitch down shoe.

 After cutting all component of a pair of shoe quality checked the components. If the components are OK then quality pass it to the sewing dept for sewing.

Sewing: Sewing dept. attach every part/component of shoe with proper stitch same as the approval shoe sample. If the shoe has lining, sewing dept. attach the lining. That means sewing dept. makes the complete upper from the components. After completing the upper sewing quality check every individual upper and send it through the lasting section for assembling. See bellow a ready upper of the shoe.

Lasting or Assembling:  All shoes are finished at this department. A lot of job has been done here to make a quality shoe. This is where all the parts of a shoe assemble. We are in a process of a stitch down shoe. See bellow how a operation wise lasting line set for a stitch down shoe.

OPERATIONS Counter Moulding Input Upper and Last Insole Board attach Cementing Toe Steam Toe Lasting Toe Pressure Side lasting Side pressure and cutter Stitching Sole primer Cementing Sole joint Sole Pressure Sole side cutter Sole Side buffing Sole side finishing Sole Side trimming Unlasting Cosmetic Operation Side gap reparing Cementing for socks Putting Socks Attach sticker Sole cleaning Insert tissue

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Shoe component

The composition of a shoe can be divided into two parts:

• The top and


• The bottom.

THE TOP PART

Top Parts of a shoe

Is the part that protects the foot and is the most important for the quantity of elements that make it attractive.

THE BOTTOM

The term "sole" is derived from the Latin "solea" which means "soil and land.“

Bottom Parts of a shoe

The most important parts of the bottom are:

• THE SHANK

Is a still plate which guarantees the affordability of the line that runs from heel to the point where the sole touches the ground.

• THE INSOLE

Upper part of the bottom which directly supports the foot and the sock lining.

• THE WELT

Profile of leather or synthetic material, very flexible, which follows the profile of the sole



Lets have a look the upper component  and the bottom components.

The Upper Components

Upper Components

The Bottom Components:

Bottom Components

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