Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Standart Data Manual for Upper Cutting Manipulation of Shoe-1

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The method of Cutting "Uppers" from a skin is a great importance, and is necessary for cutter to know the structure of the skin/hide. The cutter must know which parts of the skin have better physical properties, the direction of the stretch and the nature and origin of the various defects.

The various parts of a skin or hide
The outside of the skin called  "grain" and the inside the "flesh".
The various parts of the skin are
section of the skin/hide
Section of the skin/hide.
  • The bend 
  • Butt
  • Shoulder
  • Belly 
  • Cheeks and
  • The legs.
Bend: The bend is a part of the skin which covers the central part of the back of the animal. It is regular in thickness and also more resistant than other parts of the skin. This resistance diminishes towards the shoulder and the belly. The thickness, quality and size of the bend can vary according to the size or the type of skins.

Butt: The but is the lower part of the bend, and is not always even in thickness.

Shoulder: The shoulder covers the neck of the animal and is generally thick, especially in skin from male animals. It is lower quality than that of the bend and butt, since it is more spongy and shrivelled.

Belly: The belly, being the part of the body which is subject to most movement, i.e. breathing, has a different structure to other parts of the skin in that it has longer fiber which make it easier or stretch.

Cheeks & Legs: The cheek and leg have similar characteristics as the belly, and are the least usable parts of the skin.

To be continued for second part.

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