Quality Manual-Process Inspection Outsole and Solefinishing

Outsole Dept:

Rubber Outsole Process

Rubber Sole Process

Specification

Compounding Specification

Solefinishing dept:

Practical finishing  of outsole:

After making the outsole, some of them need to fabricate (Cutting, buffing, joining sole & heel, sole & wedge, fixing welt, attaching different/same materials, shaping, profiling, beveling, coloring etc) and finish them as per requirement depending on the type of outsole to make them usable following the approved sample.

 Insole to be prepared in the similar fashion.

Flow chart of Outsole and Sole finishing Dept.

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10 Points for good cementing

Hello there,
In a shoe making process sole adhesion and other cementing is most important for making a better shoe.  I mention here 10 best points for good  cementing.

Cementing

1. Do Roughening and scouring of Uppers/Soles properly and remove dust (follow-procedure).

2. Use proper brush. Ensure separate brush for different kind of cements. Clean brush as follows:

               a.     Wipe brush for using P.U. cement with M.E.K.
               b. Wipe brush for using Neoprene cement with Toluene or petrol.
               c. Wipe brush for using latex with petrol.

3. Use primers depending the suitability of material. Before cementing use primers and ensure proper drying.  Drying time should not be less than 1 hour in case of halogenations (T.C.T. solution).

4. To avoid contamination keep the wiped surface upside down.

5. Ensure sufficient drying time (follow procedure).

6. Ensure proper temperature for heat-reactivation (follow procedure).

7. Ensure sufficient time for reactivation (follow procedure).

8. Lay soles to shoe when they are hot (immediate after reactivation)

9. Ensure proper pressing (follow procedure) maintain uniform pressure all over the sole.

10. Ensure sufficient time for pressing (follow procedure).

11. The surfaces where cement to be used must be clean and free of dust and moisture.

These are the points for good cementing of a shoe.

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Glossary of Terms S

Glossary of Terms S

Safety box toe- a box toe made of special high grade steel inserted in a work shoe for protective purpose.

Sample- a shoe made for the use of salesmen to show the style construction and quality of the footwear being offered for sale. The common trade practices is to make sample shoes in particular sizes.

Shank- that part of the sole of the shoe between the heel and the ball or tread. Also the steel or wood piece inserted in the arch of a shoe for reinforcement.

Sheepskin- leather from the skin of sheep used for linings and slippers.

Side Leather- cattle hide cut along backbone into two sides for convenient handling; leather made from these after trimming is side leather. A large percentage of leather shoes are made from this.

Silicone- on of the family of polymeric materials. The various forms obtainable are characterized by their resistance to heat. Silicones are used in the following applications:
a. High frequency molds
b. Greases for lubrication and mold release
c. Rubber- like sheeting for gaskets etc

Split Leather

d. Heat-stable fluids and compounds for waterproofing, insulating, etc
e. Thermo setting insulating varnishes and resins for booth coating and laminating.

Sock lining- a piece of material placed over the entire insole on the inside of a shoe to protect the foot from stitches on the inside in certain types of constructions.

Split leather- any leather from portions of hides or skins that are split into two or more thicknesses other than the grain or hair side. Uses: upholstery, gloves, luggage. innersole, shoe uppers.

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Glossary of Terms-Q & R

Glossary of Terms-Q

Part Of shoe

Quarter- the complete upper part of a shoe upper above the vamp line. The quarter may be referred to as the "top" in case of high boots. It may also be split into several components parts such as foxing, plug, saddle. The pattern of the quarter is frequently the most important part of the design of the shoe.

Glossary of Terms-R

Roughing- the exposure and erection of the fibers of the material on the lasted-over margin of the upper and the corresponding edges of the outsole in order to provide a more grippable surface to be cemented for the purpose of sole attaching.

Rough rounded- the outsole of a shoe after trimming or rounding off to the shape of the last. The crude outline made by the rough rounding machine is later perfected by edge trimming.

Rubber- an elastomer capable of rapid elastic recovery after being stretched, specifically natural rubber which is the standard of comparison for elastomers. The term rubber may apply to any on of a large number of natural and synthetic elastomeric compounds which can be made in varying degrees of hardness and may also be expanded into cellular form of sponge or cushion. Rubber is commonly used for cemented or molded shoe bottoms as well as for separate soles and heels. Protective footwear is also made of rubber either slush molded or fabricated from sheeting or rubberized cloth.

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Glossary of Terms-E

Glossary of Terms-E

Edge finish- after the edge of the shoe is trimmed, it is stained with the desired color ink or a natural dressing is applied. Over this a film of hard wax is applied under the pressure of a heated iron.

Edge setting- finishing the edge of the soles with polish or wax applied under heavy pressure with a hot vibrating iron or by rubbing.

Edge trimming- the first operation in finishing the sole edge is that of trimming. The edge trimmer finishes the outline of the sole and shapes the edge. This is done by machine using rotary cutting wheels.

Edging- beveling a narrow scarf from leather or fabric, particularly where upper parts are joined by other than lap seams or where upper edges are finished by burnishing. The work is done on a skiving machine.

Elastomer- a material which stretches at room temperature under low stress to at least twice its length and snaps back to the original length upon release of stress.

Epoxy resins- can be formulated into excellent adhesives, some of which are used in footwear for heavy duty applications such as the cementing of outsoles for use in adverse environments.

Ethylene- vinyl acetate (EVA)-copolymers from these two monomers from a class of  plastic materials. They retain many of the properties of polyethyelene but have considerably increased flexibility for their density. Elongation and impact resistance are also increased. Has been used for outsoles. Blended with petroleum wax. EVA is used extensively for hot melt cement.

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Golssary of Terms-C

C
Calf leather- Leather made from the skins of young cattle from a few days up to a few months old; the skin weigh up to 15 lb. It is finer grained, lighter in weight, and more supple than cowhide or kip leathers.

California process- This process requires the accurate drafting of patterns, cutting, and stitching of the upper, sock lining and platform cover. The upper and sock lining are stitched together. The platform cover is stitched to the other two parts in a separate operation. The last is then inserted into the upper. After the last is inserted the platform is accurately pressed into place, the platform cover lasted and the sole and heel fastened. Same as slip-lasted.

Cellular plastics- Resins is sponge form. The sponge may be flexible or rigid, the cells closed or interconnected, the density anything from that of the solid parent resin down to 2 lb/cu. ft., or less. Compressive strength of rigid foams is fair, making them useful as core materials for sandwich structures. Both types are good heat barries. Foamed, expanded or cellular plastic are commonly used for shoe uppers have a cellular pvc or polyurethane(PU) layer between the fabric and the tough outer skin to provide added flexibility and comfort.

Cement- A term broadly applied to a number of adhesives used commonly in shoemaking.

Chainstitch- A single thread stitch, characterized by the fact that the entire thread may be pulled out when one stitch is cut or broken.

Channel- A slanting cut made around the edge of an outsole or insole to provide a groove for the stitching and to keep the line of thread below the surface of the leather. Soles so stitched are called "Channel Stitched."

Clicker- A term used to describe a machine that cuts shoe upper parts. See "Drinking."

Closing- Sometimes used ti include the stitching together of any two parts of a shoe upper, but more generally applied only to the operation of stitching the upper together at the back part with a closed or closing seam.

Coated fabrics- Any fabrics impregnated or coated with lacquer or similar finishing material. Used for shoe linings in some grades of footwear and are more commonly included under the classification artificial leather.

Combination last(Or shoe) - Designed to provide a proper fit for the individual with a thinner than normal instep or heel. Length and width will be of standard measurements but narrower fitting qualities will prevail through instep, waist and heel.

Composition- Materials composed of granulated fillers, such as cork, leather, fiber, minerals, in a resinous matrix, usually an elastomer. Compressed and molded into sheet materials, compositions are used for insoles, midsoles, outsoles, heel bases, etc.

Cookie- A small padding of felt or other cushion material inserted into the shoe to support  the arch of the foot along the shank area. Name derived from resemblance to a pastry cookie.

Cordovan- Leather made from the tight firm portion of horse butts. It has very fine pores, a characteristic waxy finish and is very durable.

Crepe rubber- Originally unvulcanized natural rubber with light color and knobbly surface for soles and heels. Most crepe rubber for shoes is now of synthetic elastomers.

Cuban Heel- A broad low-to-meduim high heel, with curved back line and straight breast. Usually 11/8 to 17/8 high.

Curing- The treatment of raw hides and skins after flaying to retard bacterial action and putrefaction. When thoroughly cured the hides and skins are stored until they are taken be the tanner. They are then soaked to soften them and made ready for further preparatory treatment before they can be tanned into leather.

Cut stock- Bottom stock for shoes such as soles, taps, linfts, block and strips of sole leather.

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Glossary of Terms-B

Backing-laminating- A piece of fabric to leather or other fabric used for shoe uppers by the use of adhesives. Purpose is to make leather or shoe fabric stronger and firmer. Backing cloth may be an thin tough fabric. Also called combining.

Backpart molding- A preparatory shaping operation to heel seat prior to lasting. Usually performed on thermoplastic counters where backpart components are heated on a metal heel form and molded into the backpart heel shape combining counter, upper and lining before the actual lasting operation is performed in the backpart of the shoe.

Ball- The fleshy part of the foot just back of the toes. It also refers to the corresponding part of the last and is one of the most important points of last measurement and design. The style and comfort of a she to a great extent is determined by the shape of the last at the ball. It is at this point that laxity in shoe fitting is found to be the most prevalent.

Ball measurement- The line running completely around the last intersecting the joints of large and small toes.

Bottom filler- The material used for filling the cavity between the inner and outer soles of the shoe. It is a reinforcement ti the shoe. Granulated cork, latex, cork sponge, slab cork, cushion cork, spun fiberglass, felt and mixtures of leather scraps and other materials are used as a bottom filler.

Box toe- A stiffener used to maintain the shape of a shoe toe, preserve the toe room within the shoe, and give reasonable protection to the wearer's  foot. There are three types of box toes:

• Rigid
• Flexible and
• Soft.

Rigid toes include all types made from materials which provide maximum firmness with rigid domes. Flexible toes include the types which can be flexed by the thumb pressure yet have semi-regid walls. Soft toes include those which are intended to merely preserve the toe form and give maximum comfort to the wearer. These toes are widely used in perforated shoes.

Buckskin- Leather from deer and elk shins, used for shoes, gloves and clothing. Only the outer cut of the skin from which the surface grain has been removed may be correctly defined as "Genuine buckskin." 

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Glossary of Terms-A

Acrylonitrile-butabiene Styrene (ABS)- Acrylonitrile and styrene liquids and butadiene gas are polymerized together in a variety of ratios to produce the family of ABS resins. ABS is used extensively for injection molded women's heels by reason of its high impact strength and ease with which it can be decorated and finished.
Adhesive: A substance which, applied as an intermediate is capable of holding materials together by surface attachment. This term is used interchangeably with cement.
Applique-decoration laid on and applied to another surface, as band or separate design of petals, leaves, figures. Vamps of shes are sometimes appliqued in various designs.

Arch- The bony framework of the foot extending from the heel forward to the toes and sustained by the muscles and ligaments in the form of an arch. Also the bottom curve of a shoe last from heel to ball.

Arch Support- A device of leather, metal or other material shaped to the contour of the foot arch and inserted in a shoe to prevent or correct weakened arches. Similar devices built into a shoe are designed for the same purpose.

Awl- A pointed tool for piercing small holes in leather, upper or soles.

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Basic of Shoes- Bottom Parts

Last part of the Basic of shoes series. Here is the first three parts
1. Basic of Shoes
2. Basic of Shoes- Leather Upper
3. Basic of shoes- Synthetic and Others

• Rubber: Rubber is used for the upper when the sole is made of the same material.
• Bottoms: The types of materials commonly used in shoe bottoms are:
• Leather
• Rubber
• Plastic

• Leather: The larger and thicker leather skins are used for bottoms. The insoles are cut from the bellies and the outsoles from the skin cut along the backbone where the leather has the greatest abrasion resistance. The properties of leather of bottoms are:
• Great abrasion resistance
• Expensive: Leather is generally more expensive then most rubbers or plastic. That is why it is mainly used in high quality footwear.
• Less durable than most other materials: Leather is chosen for its attractive appearance rather than durability, which is lower compared with most other materials.

• Rubber: Rubber can be:
• Natural
• Synthetic(SBR)

          The properties of rubber for bottoms are:

• Hard wearing
• Flexible
• Waterproof
• Easier and less expensive to produce than leather

               Today, most types of rubber are likely to be based on the general-purpose synthetic rubber denoted S.B.R., rather than the traditional natural rubber obtained from rubber trees. Soles made from these two types of rubber are vulcanized (except crepe) and have similar properties. Vulcanized soles are sometimes referred to as "Composition rubbers" because they are made up of a number of ingredients added to the basic rubber to control the properties. Some black compounds may have a tendency to mark floors depending on the quantity of carbon black in the mix. The soles are used in a wide variety of footwear from heavy-duty to general purpose.

• Rubber bottoms vary in type, including:
• Translucent rubber-vulcanized: Translucent rubber is a high-quality vulcanized rubber, either natural or synthetic. It contain silica and it is usually available in "natural" colors ranging from off-white to light brown.
• Resin rubber-vulcanized: Resin rubber was developed in the early 1950s to simulate leather. It is a firm type of vulcanized rubber based on a synthetic SNR-rubber, reinforced with a high styrene resin.
• Microcellular rubber-vulcanized: Microcellular rubber is basically a resin rubber with a cellular structure. During vulcanization the rubber is expanded by a blowing agent which forms numerous small, non-interconnection cells.
• Sponger rubber-vulcanized: Sponge rubber is used for sole for felt or cloth slippers. It has a spongy, cellular structure and it is covered with a thin, solid skin. it is vulcanized directly to the upper.
• Crepe-not vulcanized: Crepe is obtained directly from the rubber latex, the milky liquid from rubber trees, by coagulation the rubber particles and milling them into sheets. It is lightweight, flexible, hard-wearing and comfortable to wear. The downside of crepe is that it will deteriorate if contaminated by oil, petrol or chemicals. If subjected to heat, sole will discolor and become soft and tacky. It is frequently used for soles of stitchdown shoes and sandals.

• Plastic: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is cement lasted as a molded unit or directly injected to the upper. PVC is the main synthetic used for shoe soling. The PVC polymer is hard, but when used for soling it is softened by the addition of plasticisers. It can be either used as "direct injection" to the upper or as a stuck-on unit, "Cement lasted." The Properties of PVC bottoms are:

• Hard wearing
• Flexible
• Soft
• Can slip when cold

• Thermoplastic Rubber (TPR) is directly injected to the upper. TPR can be injection molded. It was originally developed for soling to simulate crepe and soft vulcanized rubbers. The properties of TPR of bottoms are:
• Looks and feels rubbery
• Lighter than vulcanized rubber or PVC
• Good traction
• Excellent cold track resistance
• Low cost

• Ethylene Vinyl Acetate (EVA) is used in an expanded form. Normally used in expanded form either on its own or blended with S.B.R. It is used fro outsole in lightweight footwear and midsoles in trainers. The properties of EVA for bottoms are:
• Much lighter than conventional SBRs microcellular rubbers but with the same durability.
• Flexible and resilient
• Good ground insulation
• Used as outsoles in lightweight footwear
• Used as midsoles in trainers.

• Polyurethane(PU) can be blended to be solid, cellular, flexible or rigid. Normally for shoe the blend is a flexible cellular structure. For top-pieces the solid, rigid from is used. PU is a very hard wearing polymer resistant to most chemicals. Used frequently as a two-part sole material with a thin solid PU-polymer and a blown PU-material for most of the sole making. It is frequently used for safety footwear. The properties of PU for bottoms are:
• Light in weight, flexible and resilient 
• Good ground insulation
• Most durable of the cellular soling.

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Basic of shoes-Synthetic and others

 This is the 3rd part of the article. You can see here-First part & Second part

• Synthetics: Synthetic upper materials are most commonly made of coated fabrics. Coated fabrics can be grouped in three main categories:
• Polyurethane-coated fabrics(PUCFs)
• Polyvinyl-chloride-coated(PVC) fabrics
• Poromerics

• PUCFs for uppers are made of cotton or polyster/cotton base fabrics with a thin coating polyurethane on the fabric base. PUCFs were developed in the late 1960s for upholstery and clothing as well as footwear. In coagulated materials, the fabric is impregnated before the coating is applied. Transfer coated materials have a thin coating of polyurethane on a raised fabric base. Woven cotton or polyester/cotton base fabrics are usually used for this purpose.

          The properties of PUCFs for uppers are:

• Good imitation of the softer leathers: Polyurethane-coated fabrics are a good imitation in appearance and feel of the softer leathers and they are available in a wide range of colors.
• Soft and light-weight
• Comfortable to wear
• Less durable than leather and they are prone to abrasion damage and snagging. This is PUCFs main disadvantage.

• PVC-coated fabrics for uppers are made of a woven. Knitted or non-woven bases are coated with a layer of plasticised PVC which may have a solid or a cellular structure.

  The Properties of PVCs for Uppers are:

• Little "give" to the foot. Synthetic shoes do not have permanent "give" like leather and do not tend to return to their original shape and size when the shoes are not being worn. This is a factor to be considered by the sales associates when they are fitting shoes. The shoes must be of adequate size and comfort when they are tried on because it is unlikely that they will become more comfortable in wear.
• Impermeable to water vapor: The main synthetic upper materials use are not as permeable to water vapor as leather. Some people will find them not as comfortable to wear, particularly in closed style shoes.
• Good abrasion resistance: In wear, these materials usually have good abrasion resistance. But it is common for glossy finishes to gradually become dull.
• Easy to clean
• Comparatively inexpensive.

• Poromerics-coated fabrics for Uppers are made of a textile and/or polymer base with a thick porous polyurethane surface layer.

         Poromerics is a name given to a type of synthetic material possessing a leather like appearance and properties. Particularly with regard to permeability of foot perspiration. Generally, they resemble the firmer leather such as calf and side.

          Most poromerics  have a thick surface layer which is equivalent to the grain layer in leather, and a textile and/or polymer base.

         The properties of poromerics for uppers are:

• Good wear performance: Poromerics retain surface appearance well and are easy to clean.
• Reasonably water repellent: Poromerics are more water repellent than most leathers.

Fabric

Synthetic(PU)

• Fabrics: A wide range of fabrics is used for shoe uppers, both outers and linings. Fabrics outers are necessarily heavier in weight and are usually of woven(canvas) of kint construction in natural or synthetic yarns, usually combined with another textile for uppers. Linings also include woven and knitted fabrics as well as non-woven textiles which can be impregnated with plastic to increase their durability.

          Fabrics include a wide variety of natural and man-made fibers:

• Cotton
• Wool
• Nylon

          The Properties of fabrics for uppers are:

• Innovative and technical: Most of the forward thinking in the area of materials comes from the textile side of our industry. In particular, the newest trend becoming increasingly significant is "stretch" textiles.
• Low cost
• Durable
• Provide soft surface and long wear
• Create cushion though fiber (lining)
• Wick moisture and reduce heat.

See some butiful synthetic upper shoe's from amazon

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Basic of shoes-Leather Upper

 This is the second part of basic of shoe. See the first part.

• Shoe Materials
• Upper: The type of materials commonly used in shoe uppers are:
• Leather 
• Synthetics
• Fabrics
• Rubber

• Leather: Leather can be made from the skin of any animal:
• Cattle 
• Sheep
• Fish
• Bird
• Reptile

             Cattle, Cow or buffalo are the main source of supply although exotic materials such as ostrich, crocodile, etc. are sometimes used.

• The skin of most animals consists of three main layers, the:
• Grain: The grain is the outermost on the animal. Best leather have the grain layer intact. Flawed leather have the grain buffed or corrected before finishing. Buffing is done by applying a surface of an abrasive wheel to give the grain a degree of nap or "Sueding". Examples of buffed leather are the "brushed" pigskin, buck, nubuck (calf-imitating buck). "Velvet" suede's are also lightly buffet as well as some grain leathers, just enough to give a Matt surface without masking the grain pattern. Thick leather are split into two separate layers known as the "grain split" and the "flesh split." The latter is used as a "suede split" with either the flesh side ot the split side uppermost. Most suede's are made from splits without the grain.
• Corium: The corium is the main or central layer. The corium has thicker fibers that provide most of the material strength.
• Flesh: The flesh is a thin layer between the corium and the actual flesh of the animal. The flesh is of little value in the finished leather and it is usually partly or wholly removed.

• The skin is converted to leather through process called tanning. The two types of tanning are:
• Chrome: Chrome tanning is the most widely used tanning process today. The hides are placed in large revolving drum, where they are soaked and agitated in a solution of chromium sulfate. The leather turns blue or green as a result of the tanning. After removal from the drums the skins are split and shaved for even thickness.
• Vegetable: Vegetable tanning is a slow process. It uses extracts of bark, wood, etc. It is now used only for sole leather.

• The hide is divided into:
• Five sections for upper leather
• Bend: The bend is the central part of the hide. It has the best quality and it is the most wear resistant. It is used for vamps.
• Shoulder: The shoulder is the neck part of the animal. It has some defects (Wrinkles around the neck). It is used for making tongues.
• Butt: The butt is the back part of the animal and it is not very good quality. It is used for linings.
• Head and Feet: The head and feet are the worst part of the hide and they are not generally used.
• Belly: The belly being the part of the body which subjected to most movements, it has a different structure than other parts. It has longer fibers, which make it easier to stretch. It is one of the poorest parts of the hide.

• Three sections for sole leather
• Bend: The bend covers the back of the animal from the groin to the first wrinkle of the neck. It is a good quality leather and it is the most wearesistant are. It is the best leather for soles.
• Shoulder: The shoulder is the part covering the neck. It is of a lesser quality and it is used for making insoles, counters, etc.

• The skin stretch varies according to the particular area of the body of the animal. A shoe component must always be cut so that the direction of stretch follows the width of the piece.

 This is to avoid cutting the stretch direction along side the piece. It must be tight in the heel-to-toe direction.

Leather stretch area

• The properties of leather for uppers are:
• Plasticity: The properties and appearance of leather makes it very suitable for shoe uppers. Plasticity is the ability to retain a stretched shape. It enables the upper to take the shape of the last in shoe making and to "give" in wear should the shoes be fitted a little tight, but not so much that the shoes lose their shape completely.

• Perspiration absorption and transmission of it as water vapor: Leather usually absorbs large quantities of perspiration and, depending on the finish, transmits it as water vapor. The ability to do this is most desirable for foot comfort, especially in men's footwear. The ability to transmit moisture is affected by the type of finish applied to the outer surface. A patent finish, for example, is impermeable, as are scuff-resistant coatings used on some children's shoes.

                The permeability of leather means that normally, it is not completely waterproof. However, most types are sufficiently water-repellent for normal wear that does not involve long periods of wear under wet conditions. (The water resistance can be improved by special treatments).

• Resistant: Most leathers have good resistance to flexing in walking.
• Expensive: Leather is one of the most expensive materials used for shoe uppers.
• Traditional: Leather has been used for hundreds of years in shoe construction.

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Basic of shoes

Parts of Shoe Upper

• Objective

              The purpose of this module is to familiarize you with the:

• Basic Parts of a shoe
• Shoe materials
• Shoe styles
• Shoe constructions

• Basic parts of a shoe

The two major parts of a shoe are the upper and the bottom

• Upper: The upper is comprised of the:
• Quarters: The quarters enclose the sides and back of the foot and are joined at the back seam.
• Vamp: The vamp covers the toe and forepart or front of the shoe.
• Toe/toe cap: The toe/toe cap refers only to the foremost (most forward) area of the shoe.
• Feather edge: The feather edge is not really part of the upper . It is the lower extremity where the upper meets the sole or insole.
• Lasting Allowance: When the patterns are cut, an additional margin of material is added to the feather edge fro stitching. This is what is called the lasting allowance.
• Counter: A simple shoe is made up of two quarters, which are joined at the back. It is sometimes desirable, however, to eliminate this back heel seam so that the back of the shoe is cut as one piece. When this is done, that one piece is called a counter.
• Wing Cap: The wing cap os a conventional toe cap set squarely across the shoe. A wing cap is angled back to give a streamline effect.
• Tongue: The tongue is a strip of material found under the lacing or fastening of the shoe. A vamp may have a separate tongue or the vamp and tongue may be cut all in one piece.
• Quarter facings: The front panels at the lace-up area of the shoe are called facings or quarter facings. The facings may either be separate piece or part of the quarter.
• Topline or quarter topline: the top of the shoe which surrounds the opening of the foot is called the topline or quarter topline.
• Backstrap: Since the heel seam is often subjected to considerable strain both in lasting and wear. It is common to reinforce it with backstrap.

All the upper pieces are fully lined with one or more linings. The linings of the shoe help grip the foot and cover the inside materials.

Bottom Parts of a shoe

• Bottom: The bottom is comprised of the:
• Sole: The sole is the layer of material covering bottom of the shoe and it is the walking surface of the shoe.
• Heel: The heel is the component of the shoe that supports the back part of the foot (Lifts from the layer of material used to build up the heel; the top lift is the wearing layer of the heel). Today most soles and heels are pre-fabricated as a single bottoming unit, eliminating a series of operations on the assembly line and reducing costs.
• Insole: The insole is the inner component of the shoe and it is considered to be the foundation of the shoe since the upper is attached to it. It is made from materials that will absorb moisture from perspiration and it is molded to conform to the bottom of the last before the upper is lasted to ensure the comfort and the shape of the shoe.
• Shank: The shank is a strip of metal, or other material, shaped to the inside profile of the last to reinforce the waist of the shoe so it is comfortable and maintains its shape during wear.
• Bottom filling: The bottom filling is a flexible material used to fill the cavity between the insole and the sole.
• Sock: The sock is a piece of material shaped to cover or part of the insole. It is inserted into the completed shoe and usually bears the shoe brand name.

To be continued 

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Cemented and McKay stitch(Machine sewn) construction:

Cemented Construction:

In this process the upper is attached to the insole by cement , the lasting margin is roughened. The sole is attached  with lasted upper by means of adhesive. The result is the permanent bond between three elements( upper, insole, sole). There is no stitch. Many women and children shoes along with a large number of men’s  dress and casual type of shoes are made in this process.
Here's a Super Video

McKay stitch(Machine sewn) construction:

This is a direct method of attachment of sole to the upper by stitching. After flat lasting as for cemented, the sole is temporarily attached by adhesive, the last is slipped and the sole is stitched to the upper through the insole forming a series of loops. The chain stitches are hidden  in the groves  of the sole.

McKay stitch(Machine sewn) construction

See how to stitch a McKay stitch machine

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The method is very much easy to identify. The seam or loops of stitch can be seen in the inside, if the sock is lifted.

Find Your Favorite Running Shoes. 

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California, DIP and DVP Construction

California Construction: In this process the upper, socks and the wrapper are sewn together. The last is then forced into the upper. Unlike other shoes, there is no opportunity  to take up the surplus upper  into the lasting allowance, so all the parts must be cut and stitched accurately. After the insertion of the last the insole or platform or mid sole is carefully stuck-on to the socks with in the stitched area by means of a suitable adhesive. Then the wrapper is lasted on it. The filler is inserted into the gap. After scouring the wrapper, the sole is cemented on by proper adhesive and pressed the shoe by air pressure to ensure good attachment.

California Process

This type of construction is used mainly  for casual and leisure type footwear particularly for ladies and children open toe and open heel shoes.

Identifying characteristics:

California shoes are often of the open toe and open heel pattern.

They have the wrapper sewn to the upper.

The advantages of this process is that they are extremely flexible and comfortable.

DIP(Direct injection moulding process):

In this process either sock lasted or string lasted upper is pressed to a sole shaped mould. The PVC sole compound is injected and it forms a permanent bond with the upper.

DIP Process

In this process for textile and vibox application of primer and cement is necessary and in case of leather lasting margin should be roughened. In this case the sole has long wear ability.

Many men’s work shoes, some casuals, children shoes and canvas footwear are made by the DIP process.

Identifying characteristics:

1.Area in contact with the foot is smooth and comfortable.

2. No stitches.

3.The sole in many cases extending over the side edges is bound to the upper.

Advantages:

1.Soles are attached to the upper in a single operation.

2.Shoes wear longer and offer good performance with completely water resistant.

DVP (Direct vulcanizing process):

In this process the sock or string lasted upper along with rubber soling material and in some cases rubber foxing is pressed at about 160 degree centigrade and at 3kg/cm2 pressure. The rubber becomes vulcanized with in 2.5 to 3 minutes.

In this case the sole has long wear ability.

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Stitch down and Goodyear welt constructions

Stitchdown: This is the only one construction where the lasting allowance is turned outwards. The insole is larger than the last. The upper outside curved edge is cement lasted to the  insole. In some cases  a  thin micro cellular mid sole is also temporarily cemented with the insole. The sole itself  is also cemented and all the elements are bound together by stitching. The excess material from the side to be cut before trimming.

STITCHDOWN CONSTRUCTION

This process may or may not  have the  welt. Single or double sole can be used for any desired thickness.


 Identifying characteristics:

No stitching or metal parts are visible inside the shoe. On examination of the shoe it is noticeable that where the upper meets the insole, the edge of the upper turned outside and is inline  the edge of the insole. Advantage of this type of construction is that the shoes are strong and flexible.

You May Like a Clarks Desert Boots Review which is followed by Stitch down Construction.

Goodyear welt:This is an indirect method of attachment of sole, upper and welt. One of the major characteristics of this process is the use of an insole with an upstanding wall or rib. First the rib of the insole, the upper and the welt are sewn together. Then the sole and the welt are stitched together. The process is mainly used for men’s dress shoes and in industrial footwear.

Goodyear Welt Process

Advantages:

The welt being attached to the insole and the sole makes the shoe relatively water repellent.

It is very flexible light and comfortable.

Easy to repair.

It is a strong construction and has the ability to keep its shape under heavy wear.

Identifying characteristics:

Inside the shoe is free from stitches, tacks or staples except for the small portion of the heel seat.

2. It shows the stitches among the upper, welt and insole.



For more you can see Understanding shoe construction: Goodyear welt shoe
And Goodyear welted construction
 Get the shoe making books from amazon.

Also see  stitchdown shoes on amazon.

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Shoe component

The composition of a shoe can be divided into two parts:

• The top and


• The bottom.

THE TOP PART

Top Parts of a shoe

Is the part that protects the foot and is the most important for the quantity of elements that make it attractive.

THE BOTTOM

The term "sole" is derived from the Latin "solea" which means "soil and land.“

Bottom Parts of a shoe

The most important parts of the bottom are:

• THE SHANK

Is a still plate which guarantees the affordability of the line that runs from heel to the point where the sole touches the ground.

• THE INSOLE

Upper part of the bottom which directly supports the foot and the sock lining.

• THE WELT

Profile of leather or synthetic material, very flexible, which follows the profile of the sole



Lets have a look the upper component  and the bottom components.

The Upper Components

Upper Components

The Bottom Components:

Bottom Components

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What is shoe and shoe last

leather moccasin shoes

Shoe: A shoe is a footwear which is not a luxury, but is one of the essential commodities which has got a great bearing on personal and public health.

It protects one of the most marvelous and the most abused parts of the human anatomy foot (having  a  complex and delicate arrangement of bone, muscle, tendon, ligament, arches, nerves and blood vessels) from external environmental hazards.

Shoe Last: The last is a reproduction of the approximate shape of the human foot.

shoe last

It is the form around which a shoe is made.  As a result , lasts are fundamental to shoe manufacturing because they dictate the exact shape, size, and fit of the shoe made on them.

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