Saturday, July 19, 2014

Golssary of Terms-C

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Calf leather- Leather made from the skins of young cattle from a few days up to a few months old; the skin weigh up to 15 lb. It is finer grained, lighter in weight, and more supple than cowhide or kip leathers.

California process- This process requires the accurate drafting of patterns, cutting, and stitching of the upper, sock lining and platform cover. The upper and sock lining are stitched together. The platform cover is stitched to the other two parts in a separate operation. The last is then inserted into the upper. After the last is inserted the platform is accurately pressed into place, the platform cover lasted and the sole and heel fastened. Same as slip-lasted.

Cellular plastics- Resins is sponge form. The sponge may be flexible or rigid, the cells closed or interconnected, the density anything from that of the solid parent resin down to 2 lb/cu. ft., or less. Compressive strength of rigid foams is fair, making them useful as core materials for sandwich structures. Both types are good heat barries. Foamed, expanded or cellular plastic are commonly used for shoe uppers have a cellular pvc or polyurethane(PU) layer between the fabric and the tough outer skin to provide added flexibility and comfort.

Cement- A term broadly applied to a number of adhesives used commonly in shoemaking.

Chainstitch- A single thread stitch, characterized by the fact that the entire thread may be pulled out when one stitch is cut or broken.

Channel- A slanting cut made around the edge of an outsole or insole to provide a groove for the stitching and to keep the line of thread below the surface of the leather. Soles so stitched are called "Channel Stitched."

Clicker- A term used to describe a machine that cuts shoe upper parts. See "Drinking."

Closing- Sometimes used ti include the stitching together of any two parts of a shoe upper, but more generally applied only to the operation of stitching the upper together at the back part with a closed or closing seam.

Coated fabrics- Any fabrics impregnated or coated with lacquer or similar finishing material. Used for shoe linings in some grades of footwear and are more commonly included under the classification artificial leather.

Combination last(Or shoe) - Designed to provide a proper fit for the individual with a thinner than normal instep or heel. Length and width will be of standard measurements but narrower fitting qualities will prevail through instep, waist and heel.

Composition- Materials composed of granulated fillers, such as cork, leather, fiber, minerals, in a resinous matrix, usually an elastomer. Compressed and molded into sheet materials, compositions are used for insoles, midsoles, outsoles, heel bases, etc.

Cookie- A small padding of felt or other cushion material inserted into the shoe to support  the arch of the foot along the shank area. Name derived from resemblance to a pastry cookie.

Cordovan- Leather made from the tight firm portion of horse butts. It has very fine pores, a characteristic waxy finish and is very durable.

Crepe rubber- Originally unvulcanized natural rubber with light color and knobbly surface for soles and heels. Most crepe rubber for shoes is now of synthetic elastomers.

Cuban Heel- A broad low-to-meduim high heel, with curved back line and straight breast. Usually 11/8 to 17/8 high.

Curing- The treatment of raw hides and skins after flaying to retard bacterial action and putrefaction. When thoroughly cured the hides and skins are stored until they are taken be the tanner. They are then soaked to soften them and made ready for further preparatory treatment before they can be tanned into leather.

Cut stock- Bottom stock for shoes such as soles, taps, linfts, block and strips of sole leather.
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