Saturday, July 19, 2014

Glossary of Terms-B

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Backing-laminating- A piece of fabric to leather or other fabric used for shoe uppers by the use of adhesives. Purpose is to make leather or shoe fabric stronger and firmer. Backing cloth may be an thin tough fabric. Also called combining.

Backpart molding- A preparatory shaping operation to heel seat prior to lasting. Usually performed on thermoplastic counters where backpart components are heated on a metal heel form and molded into the backpart heel shape combining counter, upper and lining before the actual lasting operation is performed in the backpart of the shoe.

Ball- The fleshy part of the foot just back of the toes. It also refers to the corresponding part of the last and is one of the most important points of last measurement and design. The style and comfort of a she to a great extent is determined by the shape of the last at the ball. It is at this point that laxity in shoe fitting is found to be the most prevalent.

Ball measurement- The line running completely around the last intersecting the joints of large and small toes.

Bottom filler- The material used for filling the cavity between the inner and outer soles of the shoe. It is a reinforcement ti the shoe. Granulated cork, latex, cork sponge, slab cork, cushion cork, spun fiberglass, felt and mixtures of leather scraps and other materials are used as a bottom filler.

Box toe- A stiffener used to maintain the shape of a shoe toe, preserve the toe room within the shoe, and give reasonable protection to the wearer's  foot. There are three types of box toes:
  • Rigid
  • Flexible and
  • Soft.
Rigid toes include all types made from materials which provide maximum firmness with rigid domes. Flexible toes include the types which can be flexed by the thumb pressure yet have semi-regid walls. Soft toes include those which are intended to merely preserve the toe form and give maximum comfort to the wearer. These toes are widely used in perforated shoes.

Buckskin- Leather from deer and elk shins, used for shoes, gloves and clothing. Only the outer cut of the skin from which the surface grain has been removed may be correctly defined as "Genuine buckskin." 
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